Tsukiji Honganji

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Tsukiji Honganji, sometimes romanticized to Chinese origins with the spelling Hongwanji, is a massive hybrid temple representing the Jodo Shinshu denomination. Moved to its present location in the 17th century to the town of Tsukiji near the popular shopping city of Ginza in Tokyo, it was rebuilt into what it is today following the 1922 Great Kanto Earthquake. Tsukiji Honganji was designed by an architecture professor from Tokyo University with the intent on hearkening back to the origins of Buddhism in India for the exterior while maintaining a very Japanese interior. Construction began in 1931 and was finished in 1934.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 7.

I have to start off with my beef against Tsukiji Honganji before I move on to praising its beauty. My beef comes with its lack of a Goshuin. Now some of you might think, "Dude, it's just a little scribble in a notebook." Yes, you're right in that regard, and I don't mind if they don't have a Goshuin though I would still like one, my issue comes with their solution to the growing interest in Goshuin. At Tsukiji Honganji, there is a sign which says that they don't have a Goshuin but have their own stamps for visitors to use. Good solution you might think; WRONG!! The stamps are nice, but the ink is this atrocious fuchsia which insults the beauty of all the other Goshuin you have collected so far. 

Ok I'm done. Why should you go? It's friggin' beautiful. The exterior is amazing and the intricate details of the interior take your breath away. And say you feel like after your visit (or before) you want to find some other cool stuff in the area. Well don't fear good tourists, you happen to be in the biggest and most famous fish market IN THE WORLD!!! Get there early enough in the morning and you might be able to walk away with a premium slice of whatever fish you want. Don't want to wake up that early? All good because all of that fresh fish gets sold to the multitude of restaurants in the market area providing some of the best Japanese food you could ask for. So have some fun!

Update: Sadly, the fish market is no longer in the Tsukiji area but instead further east in Toyosu, a town 2 kilometers (a little over a mile) east of the old market. However, not all the merchants moved to the new location so restaurants and local stalls are still present offering delicious food.

 

Hôjôji

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Hôjôji is a small temple across the street from Waseda University in Shinjuku Ward. Originally a part Ana-Hachimangû, Hôjôji houses a statue of Amida Buddha which was originally found in a cave at Ana-Hachimangû and then later replaced by a similar Amida statue given to the shrine by the Tokugawa Shogun. Originally like most shrines and temples in Japan, Ana-Hachimangû was a hybrid site with both Buddhist and Shinto deities enshrined at one location, but following the separation of Shinto and Buddhism by the Meiji Emperor, Hôjôji was established to house the Buddhist aspects of the shrine. With the vast majority of Tokyo burned to the ground in the fire bombings, Ana-Hachimangû and Hôjôji were reconstructed as two separate buildings even though the only division between the two is a chain-link fence. 

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 3.

Hôjôji is a great little temple with ponds and statues to accentuate its beauty, but it doesn't hold up to other temples to see. Even though it's in a prominent area of Tokyo, Hôjôji seems to be rairly visited and when I asked for a Goshuin, the monk that writes them was rarely there and had no schedule as to when he would be there. Check it out if you're nearby, but there really isn't much.

 

Genkokuji

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Situated right below Suwa Jinja in Nishi Waseda, Genkokuji is a small temple which used to be the Edo residence of a provincial lord. Back in the Edo period, provincial lords were required to make annual visits to Edo and spend time in the capital so that the Shogun could keep an eye on them all. Genkokuji used to be the estate for one of these lords when they were required to live in the city. 

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

Like Suwa Jinja, Genkokuji is a small and pleasant temple which is off the radar of most people other than those who visit. But for its small scale and seemingly closed doors, Genkokuji will always be held in a special place in my heart. When I went to visit, the nun living there was so excited to welcome Westerners and especially students on study abroad at Waseda University (key emphasis on the Waseda part) that she gave me my Goshuin and then invited my friend and I into the main hall, which from what I could understand was kept off limits to most people. It was an amazing experience to see the ornate decorations within the temple and the pristine yard below which had been maintained since the temple was a villa. Now typically you're not allowed to take photos of the inside of a temple or shrine, but we were allowed to hence the photo below. I would highly recommend visiting because it is off the beaten path. 

 

Zenkokuji

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Originally built as a larger temple complex by order of Tokugawa Ieyasu, Zenkokuji caught fire and the whole complex burned down except for the hall devoted to Bishamonten, one of the Seven Gods of Fortune, and one of the Heavenly Kings which guard Buddhas and Bodhisattva while they work. This was taken as a sign and the current Zenkokuji was renovated to house the statue of Bishamonten. 

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 4.

The attraction to Zenkokuji is more than just the temple. The temple itself is fairly small but very beautiful. The main attraction is the surrounding neighborhood which is just west of Iidabashi Station on Waseda Dori (Waseda Street). Great little shops which cater to tourists but are of much better quality than those found in areas like Shinjuku and Shibuya.