Kamishikimi Kumanoza Jinja

Kamishikimi Kamanoza Jinja is a shrine at the foot of Aso-san in Kumamoto Prefecture dedicated to Izanagi no Kami and Izanami no Kami, the two gods who created Japan. There is little confirmed information that I could find, but the shrine was rumored to have been founded in the 14th century C.E.

For the educated: 1. For the casual: 10.

Alright, first, you will need to rent a car to get to this shrine. There are no buses or trains that make the trek into this part of the countryside, so car is the only reliable method.

Alright, let’s get to the good stuff. This shrine is amazing, like a step into every japanese fantasy story you’ve ever dreamed of. Whether it’s a Studio Ghibli adventure or a “Hotarubi no Mori he” romance daydream, Kamishikimi Jinja is a small shrine at the top of a long staircase flanked by about 100 moss-covered stone lanterns in a sea of pine trees. Any time of year or day is a perfect day at this shrine, but a wet and misty day is obviously best. Because it’s such a photogenic spot, expect lots of people with cameras looking to capture the magic of this location. If you’re like me and you’re one of those photographers, please try to be patient with the others trying to enjoy the scenery.

 

Saga Jinja

A short walk from the Saga Castle Ruins is Saga Jinja, established on September 23, 1933 to enshrine Lord Nabeshima Naomasa, the 10th lord of the Saga Nabeshima Provence. There are actually 7 shrines at Saga Jinja, the oldest being Matsubara Jinja which was founded in 1772 to enshrine the first lord, Nabeshima Naoshige. Over the years, other members of the family were either enshrined, or smaller shrines were added. A “South Hall” at Matsubara Jinja was constructed for Naomasa, but as support continued to flow in, the hall was remodeled into the Saga Jinja that we see today. In 1948, the 11th lord of Saga Provence, Nabeshima Naohiro, was enshrined. A visit to all seven shrines is called hasshamairi and is believed to grant your greatest wish.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 3.

I would say that this shrine is more for the environment than anything else. For sure, the shrine is dedicated to the lords and ladies who governed the people of Saga throughout the Edo Period (1608-1869 C.E.), but I would say that the interest in the shrine is really for the shrine itself. It’s a beautiful piece of traditional architecture and a tangible difference between the main Saga Jinja, and the older Matsubara Jinja. It’s a small shrine compared to others, but I really just enjoyed my time there with a beautiful sky, great sounds, and that wonderful smell of wood. Finally, I have to achknowledge the shrine staff who were so incredibly kind to me and my family. We arrived rather late, I misread my watch and thought it was very close but pass the closing time of the shrine and asked if I could receive a goshuin if possible. While they were writing it, I realized that the shrine had been closed for more than just a little bit and, with a new wave of embarrassment, I apologized immensely to the staff who were so kind to go out of their way for me. It may have been because I’m a white guy in an area where foreigners rarely visit, it could have been simple kindness to end the year, or it could have been anything. Regardless, it was a kindness I won’t forget and I cherish it greatly. Thank you. It really made the moment special.

 

Amanoiwato Jinja

Amanoiwato Jinja is an important location in one of the many stories documented in the Nihon Shoki (c. 730 C.E.), a compilation of myths across Japan, most of which tell stories about the genesis of Japan and the mythic origins of the nation state of Yamato (ancient Japan). As a result, there is no known date for the first establishment of the shrine, but it’s one of the most famous shrines in Miyazaki Prefecture, and one of the biggest sights in Takachiho.

In the legend that pertains to this specific location, Amaterasu no Mikoto, the Sun Goddess, is troubled by the constant and destructive pranks of her brother, Susanô’ô no Mikoto. He had destroyed the sides of the rice paddies which spilled their water, skinned a horse backwards, and dropped said horse through the roof of a weaving house which startled a young weaver lady and in the confusion was killed by the shuttle of her loom. The chaos drove Amaterasu no Mikoto into grief and anger to the point where she ran away into a cave and hid herself, sealing herself inside with a boulder. As the Sun Goddess, her absence covered the world in unforgiving darkness. The gods (kami) and villagers gathered in a nearby cave to devise a plan to bring the goddess back into the world. They crafted the impression of a god from a tree dressed with jewels and a mirror and placed it near the cave entrance. The god Ameno Uzume no Mikoto (the Goddess of Dawn, Revelry, and the Performing Arts) dressed herself in a robe and jewels, bamboo leaves in her hands, and began to dance before the entrance to the cave (the first ever kagura, or sacred dance). But as she danced, beating a vessel with her feet, she didn’t realize that her robe was coming loose before it opened to reveal her naked body. All the other gods and villagers burst into laughter at the display. Meanwhile, Amaterasu no Mikoto heard the commotion outside and was buzzled that in a world of darkness, there was laughter and joy. She called out to ask how they could laugh, and Ameno Uzume no Mikoto, quick on her feet, replied that a greater god had come along so they were rejoicing. The notion of a greater god confused the Sun Goddess and she moved closer to the opening of the cave. Seeing the vague image of a great god (the decorated tree from before), she opened the door to her cave enough that Ameno Tajikarao no Kami (the God of Strength), grabbed her by the wrist and puller her out while another god adorned the cave with a shimenawa (sacred rope) which barred Amaterasu no Mikoto from trying to hide inside again, making sure that the light of the sun could never disappear again. The cave episode established not only how offerings were made to the gods, but it also was the first matsuri (festival). While modern matsuri have varying practices depending on region, they all include maidens dancing, music, and offerings of freshly cut plants.

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 10.

First things first, this shrine is not easy to get to even if you happen to be venturing around Kyushu. There are buses and tours that make stops at the shrine because of the famous Takachiho Gorge nearby, but with no trains anywhere close by, the only other reliable way is to rent a car.

Now the reason I ranked this so high despite its location is because it’s a shrine that looks as important as it is. The grounds are beautifully well kept, the buildings are classic shinto design, and the surrounding nature is simply amazing to immerse yourself in. The main shrine is within its own small set of walls with a kagura stage flanking it. I’m not sure how busy the shrine is normally because I was there on New Year’s Day so it was a bit busier than I’m sure it normally is, but it didn’t matter because there was so much natural beauty around to keep me entertained. After paying my respects, I went around the corner and down a little path to get to an outlook behind the shrine’s hall. From here, across the river, is the cave where Amaterasu no Mikoto hid herself. It’s hard to see, and photography is strictly forbidden, but it was cool to see the cave.

After the main shrine, you can walk down the road slightly to the Amano Yasukawara, a cave-like opening where the gods were said to have originally met to make the plan to trick Amaterasu no Mikoto back into the world. Inside are countless stone pillars set up by visitors as a method of prayer. I gotta also point out that the water flowing nearby is a beautiful crystal blue as the water gets deeper. This part of the shrine is not wheelchair accessable due to the stairs going from the road down to the river.

 

Kamado Jinja

Situated on the slopes of Mt. Homan in Dazaifu, Fukuoka, is the small shrine of Kamado Jinja. The shrine has always been knwon for its cherry trees which overflow with pink blossoms in spring, and warm the soul with rustic orange autumn leaves. While I couldn’t find any information about when exectly the shrine was established, there are documents going back to at least the Heian Period (794- 1185 C.E.) Enshrined is Tamayori-hime no Mikoto, the goddess who gave birth to Emperor Jimmu, the mythical first emperor of Japan. The shrine was built to ward off evil spirits, and since then was believed to be a good shrine to pray for matchmaking. The shrine that most people visit is actually the lower sanctuary, and for those willing to take the trek, there is a path that leads to the mountain summit where the upper sanctuary is. The path is a bit steep and a round trip will take the average hiker around 5 hours.

On an additional note, if you are reading this because of the name, you’re not alone. In recent years, thanks to the global popularity of the manga/anime Kimetsu no Yaiba (Demon Slayer), the shrine has become a very popular destination. Though there is no official connection between the shrine and the series’ main character Kamado Tanjiro, the shrine is more than happy to welcome fans of the show, but don’t expect to find any exclusive or show-related merchandise.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 4.

This shrine is really about 2.5 things: cherry trees, Kimetsu no Yaiba, and beautiful views. First, the trees. The trees fill the ground, and while I was there in winter with bare branches, I have seen enough cherry trees to know that in spring this shrine must be absolutely overflowing with blossoms. Second, Kimetsu no Yaiba. Again, there is no official relationship between the shrine and the multimedia story. I was slightly sad that there weren’t any crossover good luck charms or souveniers, but I was very happy to see the love from all the fans, and even more that the shrine loves it too. 0.5, the view of the valley is really lovely. Grounds are well maintaned and cross traditional aesthetics with modern refinements. For example, the indoor store where you can purchase good luck charms (omamori), it’s a white circular room with a very sleek feeling. And of course, there’s the view from the summit. I didn’t hike to the top myself, but I’ve seen some photos and it looks amazing.

 

Dazaifu Tenmangû

Daizaifu Tenmangû is a shrine dedicated to the God of Wisdom Tenjin, also known as Sugawara no Michizane. Sugawara no Michizane was a prominant member of the Imperial Court in Kyoto and was known as a renowned polymath. His intellectual prowess earned him much notoriety, and equal scrutiny from other members of the court, but none more than the Fujiwara clan. Towards the end of his life, Sugawara was sent into exile thanks to the careful planning and influence of the Fujiwara clan. Sugawara was stripped of his rank and titles before being sent to work in a minor government office in Daizaifu where he would live until dying in 903 C.E. Soon after his death, the nation suffered a series of natural disasters from the deaths of the emperor’s sons to repeated lightning strikes and floods in Kyoto. The rumor spread that it was wrathful vengence from the spirit of Sugawara. To appease his spirit, a series of consessions were made starting with the return of his titles and rankings. Later, he was further honored when the emperor founded Kitano Tenmangû in northern Kyoto where offerings were made. And finally, he was given the ultimate honor another 70 years later when he was deified and renamed Tenjin, the God of Wisdom. Dazaifu Tenmangû was founded to honor the noble official on the site of his grave.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 9.

Dazaifu Tenmangû is very similar in atmosphere to Kiyomizu-dera in Kyoto. It’s a beautiful complex which is surrounded by a densly packed neighborhood of shops and stalls selling everything from sweet treets to tchotchkes. The shrine is is quite large and designed with gold flourishes and bright colorful paint. The grounds have a really nice pace and spacing. Yeah, the main road to the first torii is rather crowded, but once you reach that first gate, there are long arching bridges over a large pond filled with koi fish, small islands with lush vegitation, and fountains. I also have to point out the trees on the grounds. They are massive and certainly very old which adds this wonderous and rich lushness to the shrine.

The shrine center is certainly the highlight of it all. With grand structures with a central courtyard, it’s a wonderful and immersive atmosphere. Unfortunately, when I visited they were finishing restoration construction on the main hall which is expected to be finished sometime in 2026. Fortunately, they had THE COOLEST TEMPORARY PRAYER HALL I’VE EVER SEEN!!! It’s a super modern building with plants growing on the roof. I don’t know what they plan to do with it afterwards, but I hope they repurpose it or donate it somewhere else. I’ve never seen anything like it and I really thought it was something special.

I will quickly add that there is an Inari shrine on the hill above the complex called Tenkai Inari Jinja. It does have its own goshuin, and it has a really cool shrine within a small cave you can crawl inside and pray. The really funny thing is that there’s an amusement park for small kids not a hundred meters down the hill so while you’re having a heartfelt spiritual moment, there will be a cheezy kids music and announcements. A very fun yet surreal experience.

 

Yabo Tenmangû

Yabo Tenmangû (or Yaho Tenmangû) is a shrine in the Yaho area of Kunitachi City in western Tokyo Prefecture. The shrine was established at the turn of the 10th century C.E. by Sugawara no Michitake, third son of renowned polymath Sugawara no Michizane. Michitake had been sent to live in the Kanto region, then called Musashi Provence, and upon hearing of the death of his father, he carved an image of Michizane and had it enshrined. Years later, when Michizane was being deified by the Imperial Court at Kitano Tenmangû in Kyoto, and renamed Tenjin, the God of Wisdom and Learning, Emperor Go-Uda promoted Yabo Shrine to Yabo Tenmangû. Later Tsubo Saburo Tamemori, a descendant of Michitake, moved the shrine from near the current Kunitachi-Fuchu Interchange to its current location. The shrine is home to several Nationally Designated Important Cultural Properties including the naming placard from Emperor Go-Uda, a pair of koma-inu guardian dogs from Emperor Murakami, a Lotus Sutra scroll written by Sugawara no Michizane, and a Wisdom Sutra written by Minamoto no Yoshitsune and others. The main hall and the surrounding forest are also designated as Important Cultural Property by the city and the prefecture.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 4.

The history of this shrine is the major draw. I would say that if you are passing through the Yaho area, it’s a lovely shrine to visit, but it doesn’t necessarily have that wow factor that would draw people in if they’re pressed for time. I will suggest that if one has the time walking around the Yaho area, particularly when walking the central drag between Yaho Station and Kunitachi Station, the shrine is a lovely little place to catch your breath, take in some of the sights, and enjoy a very lovely little shrine. It’s not the complex that its history would suggest, but I would say it’s enjoyable all the same. Please consider visiting if you have the time in the western half of Tokyo Prefecture.