Izanagi Jingû

Izanagi Jingû is a shrine of immense importance to the Shinto mythology, and yet it is largely overlooked. Rumored to be the oldest shrine in Japan as dictated by the Nihon Shoki and Kojiki, this holy site is dedicated to Izanagi-no-kami, one of the two gods who created the islands and whose progeny were the kami of the nation. After the loss of his wife Izanami-no-kami, Izanagi-no-kami settled on the first island they created: Awaji-no-honosawake-no-shima (Awaji Island).

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

Izanagi Jingû is a beautiful shrine with a koi pond, some gardens and great architecture. The layout is very clean and easy to explore, and a lack of crowds makes it a wonderful place to visit. There is a massive camphor tree which is almost 500 years old which is said to bring good luck with love and relationships. I will say this shrine is not easy to get to without some rural bus routes or a car, so it’s not the most accessable in that regard, but the town is lovely and the people are so kind. If you are visiting Awaji Island, I can’t think of a reason not to visit.

I couldn’t find any concrete information in either Japanese or in English confirming when the shrine was built or references to noted figures who paid tribute to the shrine. What I did find was a note saying that most of the buildings date back to the Meiji Period (1868-1912 C.E.). Just based on inference and supposition, I theorize that there had been a shrine in the area for as long as people can remember, but it was never this grand complex, but more likely a small shack in a grove of trees that people passed by. Strangely enough, that isn’t as uncommon as you’d think. There are lots of shrines to noted figures, locations, or events that don’t get the same love: Onokorojima Jinja, Iya Jinja, and Tsukuyomi-gû to name a few. Furthermore, there is a fresh sheen to the complex and in a way it also seems to be in conflict with the homely-ness of the surrounding town. It’s not like they realized they needed a shrine and just conjured one into existence in a random location. Therefore, I believe that this shrine was given a massive updo in the Meiji Restoration, small shack to grand shrine, for reasons I will explain in a moment. There is a noticeable correlation between important holy sites and the towns that surround them. Roads line up with the main gates, shops are nearby to cater to visitors, and more, all to say that there is a natural flow to both the site and the surrounding area. With Izanagi Jingû, that flow doesn’t seem to exist which leads me to believe that its construction was not only recent, but it was also sudden. Throughout history, Awaji has received special distinction from the imperial family and the island was known for providing much of the high-quality foods sent daily to the palace in Kyoto. Additionally, Awaji’s mythological significance isn’t a mystery, so it makes sense that there was a shrine ever present in the Taga district, but for whatever reason it didn’t receive the patronage and notoriety as other holy sites like Ise or Izumo. However, it’s well known that during Japan’s rapid modernization under Emperor Meiji, the Shinto religion was given a facelift so it could be used as propaganda to imperialize and expand. I’m sure that during this time Izanagi Jingû was updated to the complex it is now but something about it tells me that it was all very spur of the moment. Again, this is only my hypothesis based on available information.

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Yuzuruha Jinja

Yuzuruha Jinja is a mountain shrine to the tallest mountain on Awaji Island standing at 608m (1,994 ft.) tall. Though it is more like the tallest peak in a mountain chain, the summit is home to several communication towers which service the southern side of Awaji Island and Nushima.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 1.

This time I think I’ll start with the good news first.
It’s a lovely mountain shrine. Just below the summit, this shrine has stairs of stone, walls woven with little green vines, and a healthy covering of pine trees. It really gives you a chance to enjoy the air and the day. Because this shrine is rather remote, the staff is really only there to take care of the foundations and perform minor rituals, so although goshuin are available, they are written beforehand on individual sheets to be added to you goshuinchô later. The remoteness of this shrine only proves that this structure is traditionally authentic with all the decor necessary for a shrine, but lacking of unnecessary stylings. In addition to the building, a short hike to the summit will give visitors a 360 view of Awaji Island, Tokushima Prefecture, Wakayama Prefecture, and the Pacific Ocean.

On the downside of things, this is not an easy shrine to get to, especially if you intend to visit from a major city. A 40 minute drive from the center of town or a steep 90 minute hike are the only two ways to get there. The road is single lane with spots of uneven gravel road, but if you just go straight you’ll reach your destination. To this end, I recommend visiting the shrine only if you’re already in the area. It’s too far out of the way for a casual visitor, but it is an ideal vantage point for all those already visiting any number of other locations on Awaji Island.

All in all, the shrine itself is very lovely with great views, downside is that it’s a very remote location. However, the shrine has been visited by well known people throughout the years, most recently with Yuzuru Hanyu, an olympic gold medalist in men’s figure skating. Before and after the olympics, he has visited Yuzuruha Jinja to pray for good luck in his competitions.

With that in mind, I believe this shrine is a reminder that all things have value, especially the ones that most seem to take for granted. I enjoyed my visit, and I encourage all of you to find a similar spot, maybe off the beaten path, that you can enjoy regardless of notoriety or substance.

Onokorojima Jinja (Awaji Island)

Nestled in the center of Minamiawaji city on Awaji Island, Onokorojima Jinja is a shrine dedicated to the first island created in the Japanese genesis story. Onokorojima was an island bade by the gods Izanagi and Izanami by using a spear to swirl the deformed mass of the mortal world until a piece of that mass dripped off the tip of the spear and became an island. This shrine is supported by the imperial family of Japan and is noted for the massive tori gate which stands in front.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 3.

Onokorojima Jinja is a cool shrine given its history and location. The shrine itself is a bit of a letdown, but that's only based on the standards instilled from going to shrines in the two biggest hubs of Japan and therefore are subject to serious funding and embellishment. If the Japanese were also as religious as those that follow some other major religions, Onokorojima Jinja would be a massive complex supported by whoever was in power dating back to when the shrine was first built. Sadly that's not how things are, but it is important to remember that the shrine is backed by the imperial family. Awaji Island is a hidden gem in the backyard of the Kansai area. It's an area that most foreigners never even imagine to visit, but please, if you have the chance to visit Awaji and the city of Minamiawaji, please come visit this shrine, because I guarantee that the people who work diligently there every day will be more than happy to give you tips on some special places in town to visit that only the locals know. Hot springs anyone?