Narita-san (Shinshoji)

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Narita-san, also known by its temple name Shinshoji, is one of the major esoteric sect Buddhist temples in Japan at its location in Chiba prefecture overlooking the city of Narita. Founded in 940 by the great priest Kancho when a sacred statue of Fudo Myô was moved from Kansai (Kyoto, Osaka) to Narita-san. The statue had been commissioned by Emperor Saga and carved by Kukai, the famous monk who brought esoteric Buddhism to Japan. Shortly following the completion of the statue, Taira no Masakado (see Kanda Jinja and Tsukudo Jinja) led a rebellion against the Imperial Court, so the statue was moved and prayed to in hopes of ending the rebellion. The temple complex of Shinshoji was built to house the statue and still does to this day. In the Edo Period (1614-1868) the sacred statue of Fudo was brought to the city to spread esoteric teachings and at that time famed kabuki actor Ichikawa Danjuro (the Danjuro was one of the most highly regarded families of Kabuki) was playing the role of Fudo Myô on stage and as such, even today, plays with Fudo Myô have references back to Narita-san and the statue. 

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 10.

Now it's important to note that if you're thinking of going to Narita-san to go temple hopping, don't because there isn't much around. That being said, if you're the type that likes collecting goshuin, there are 5 to be collected at this one complex. It's fairly easy to get out to the city of Narita considering that the international airport is on the other side of the hill, but the city is a really cool place to visit. A mixture of city life and old fashioned Japan in one place, so if you're wanting to go but would enjoy splitting the day between the temple and the city, this is a good place to go.

The temple has so much going on for it I don't even know where to start. First, it's super super cool. There are a lot of halls to visit and a great garden to find yourself sitting on a bench and enjoying the sun, the air, and the rustle of the trees. 

Looking at the second gate at the base of the stairs to the main temple complex.

The Kômyô-do, the Main Hall at Narita-san.

Looking down on the temple complex with the Shakya-do with the rest of the complex beyond.

 

Hôkaiji

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Hôkaiji is a temple near downtown Kamakura which was built by the later founder of the Ashikaga Shogunate and the Muromachi period, Ashikaga Takauji. Takauji and his clan had fought for Emperor Go Daigo in the Kenmu Rebellion of 1333 which toppled the Kamakura bakufu and restored political power to the emperor even if it only lasted a few years. Takauji was ordered by Emperor Go Daigo to build Hôkaiji as the first of two Tendai sect temples in Kamakura and as the new funerary temple of the Hôjô family following the destruction of the original family temple in the rebellion. The temple still carries the Imperial crest on temple lanterns along walkways around the temple.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

Hôkaiji is a cool little temple with lots of life in the summer. Healthy plants on the temple grounds fill the empty spaces and bring a very natural feel to the otherwise urban setting. For historians, seek out Tôshôji, which technically no longer exists, but this temple is where all of the Hôjô Regent Lords were buried, and during the siege of Kamakura, it is where many members of the Hôjô family gathered, including the last Regent Lord Takatori, and committed suicide by burning the temple down with them inside. The ruins are semi-recognizable and they are not too far from Hôkaiji.

Paper lanterns adorning the main entrance with a hybrid image of the temple seal with the Imperial chrysanthemum.

The three triangles are the crest of the Hôjô family which can be found just about everywhere in Kamakura.

 

Fukagawa Fudo-do

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Founded in 1882 in Tokyo's Koto Ward, Fukagawa Fudo-do, also called the Fukagawa Fudo-son, is a branch temple of the well known Narita-san Shinshoji close to Narita International Airport in Chiba Prefecture. This temple is dedicated to the fearsome guardian deity Fudo Myô, a half naked being with a fearsome face, an aura of fire, and sword to smite demons. Within the Fudo-do is the main wooden effigy to the guardian deity but also one thousand more enshrined within a hallway. The modern building to the left of the main hall is covered in Sanskrit letters, connecting the temple to the origins of Buddhism in India. 

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

Make sure you hang around to see the ceremonies called goma where the head priest lights a fire an blesses objects like talismans, purses, and other items by placing them over the flame to be purified (they're not actually burned in any way). These ceremonies happen several times a day and the main hall at Fukagawa Fudo-do is one of the most beautiful ones I've been to. It's not very traditional because it's more like a theater than a prayer space, but it does allow visitors to really see what takes place in these ceremonies. Enjoy!

 

Eitaiji

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A small temple on the eastern side of Tokyo in the Koto ward, Eitaiji is run by a group of funny old monks who love visitors. Given the temple's small size, it's a great place to visit because not many will be there. 

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 3.

Eitaiji is at a disadvantage because it is next to a major temple and a major shrine which diminishes its overall importance. I enjoyed going to this temple regardless of whether or not it was really an important temple because the people there were so nice. Little shops lined the street and the temple seemed like it was a hangout point for the locals. Check it out if you're there.

An image of the street with Fukagawa Fudo-do in the distance.