Yoshino Jingû

Yoshino Jingû is a fairly new shrine dating back to 1899 when it was constructed per oders of Emperor Meiji to commemorate Emperor Go-Daigo, an emperor of the 14th century. Emperor Go-Daigo was known for overthrowing the Kamakura Bakufu, the first warrior government of Japan, and restoring political power and authority to the Imperial Family for two years under the Kenmu Restoration. Unfortunately Emperor Go-Daigo’s allied warrior clan, the Ashikaga, saw a chance at power and took it, backing a different courtier to be emperor. Go-Daigo fled to the south, established a rival court at Yoshino (which didn’t last long), and passed away soon after. His tombulus is just up the road.

For the casual: 1. For the educated: 7.

This shrine is purely a nerd spot. It’s not a pretty shrine, there are far better shrines and temples in the area, and it’s so new that the only people I can imagine being interested in visiting this shrine are those who understand some of the aspects of the emperor himself and his failed attempt to restore imperial power.

If casual visitors do make their way here, please try to visit in late March/early April when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. Yoshino is famous for the sheer quantity of cherry trees that cover the mountain side.

Outermost gate to the shrine.

Outermost gate to the shrine.

 

Kumano Hongû Taisha

Kumano Hongû Taisha is a major shrine located in the mountains on the south side of Wakayama Prefecture. As one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three great shrines of the Kumano area, it is highly regarded by many pilgrims and shares the icon of the yatagarasu, the three-legged raven, an ancient symbol for the imperial family, with its sibling shrines: Kumano-Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The shrine has several satellite shrines nearby which are recommended for visitation to complete the holy cycle of worship.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

I will say, this shrine is not particularly easy to get to without a car. Well, the entire coast is not easy to get to without a car. So ya, having a car is your best option in the long run. But aside from that, it’s a beautiful place to visit. The shrine is surrounded by breathtaking cedar and cypress trees which reach towards the heavens above. Unlike its sibling shrines, Kumano Hongû Taisha is not finished with a sheen of vermilion paint, but rather the natural dark brown of the wood is left as is to blend into the surrounding forests.

Visitors will likely notice the massive torii gate on the other side of the street, and will with good reason be confused why it’s not in front of the actual shrine. Well, funny this is that it IS in front of the actual shrine! Kumano Hongû Taisha was originally built on the banks of the river, but when a flood all but destroyed it in the 19th century, it was moved to its present location atop a small hill. The torii marks the original holy grounds of the shrine all while being the largest torii in the world, standing at 40 meters tall (131 ft.). Practically nothing remains of the original shrine apart from the stonework establishing the shrine layout and two stone shrines that survived the flood. Other satellite shrines include a shrine for the protection of women, and a shrine for the local ancient water well bubbling from the mountain.

Even the komainu are doing their part to reduce the spread of COVID-19!

Even the komainu are doing their part to reduce the spread of COVID-19!

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Kamikura Jinja

Kamikura Jinja is a small shrine on the cliff face overlooking the coastal town of Shingû in Wakayama Prefecture. The shrine is known for two things: its steep staircase, and a massive boulder which is said to be where several gods first stepped down on Earth following its creation.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 2.

Ok, first things first, the stairs are legitimately steep. Basically, you go up. The photo below doesn’t do it complete justice, but for sure it’s quite the climb. That being said, it’s not long and it levels out fairly quickly. If you’re out of shape like me, I recommend bringing a camera so that you have plenty of excuses to stop and catch your breath. If you’re fit, then this should be fairly simple. If for whatever reason you feel you need some help climbing the stairs, there’s a small collection of walking sticks visitors can use, just be sure to put them back when you come down.

The experience ascending and descending the stairs is part of why I wanted to rank this so high for casual visitors, but it’s also because of the view. The shrine itself is hanging on a small outcrop on an otherwise vertical cliff. Therefore, the view of the town and of the sea is just really beautiful. Many visitors take a moment to take it all in at the top which makes this lovely atmosphere of people elated to climb the stairs, but also bewildered by the beauty of the views. So no, this is not a major shrine, but I do recommend people visit when they have the chance.

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Kumano Hayatama Taisha

Built in the city of Shingu on the eastern coast of Wakayama Prefecture, this grand shrine is one of three sibling shrines in the Kumano area. The shrine likely dates back to the 12th century, but records and artifacts show that worship has been taking place in this region of Japan since at least the 3rd century C.E. This shrine is situated near the mouth of the Kumano-gawa, one of the largest rivers which empties fresh water out of the Kii Mountains. Like its associated shrines, Kumano Hayatama Taisha is home to the yatagarasu, the mythical three-legged raven, an icon closely associated with the imperial family. The shrine is one of many stopping points for pilgrims traveling the Kumano Kodo.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 3.

The big backlash against this shrine is simply its difficult accessability. This shrine, and the associated shrines, are on the far side of Wakayama Prefecture with limited access via public transportation and a long drive almost regardless of where you start. Outside of that, there’s a great deal to enjoy here. Vermillian structures, gold leaf accents, and colorful wood carvings are sure to delight all visitors to the complex. Be sure to pray for good luck at the Nagi-no-Ki, an ancient tree on the grounds estimated to be over 800 years old!

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