Jindaiji

Jindaiji, a Tendai sect temple, is one of those temples that has such a wealth of history and yet is completely overlooked for larger, flashier locations. Founded in 733 C.E., Jindaiji claims to be the second oldest temple in the Kanto area behind Sensôji in Asakusa. While Sensôji is a massive complex which hosts thousands of visitors per day, Jindaiji is hidden away in a forest grove in central Tokyo Prefecture in Chofu City and only boasts large numbers of visitors on key dates like New Years, Setsubun in early February, Ganzandaishi Taisai in early March, and Jindai Jusanya in mid October. The temple has two halls, the Main Hall where general worship is performed to Amida Buddha, and the Ganzan Daishi Hall where Goma fire ceremonies are performed daily before statues of Fudô Myôô. The temple is also home to a national treasure: the Hakuhô Buddha. This statue is the oldest Buddhist statue in eastern Japan and was made in the late Asuka Period (c. 538 C.E. to 710 C.E.). The Asuka Period was noted for the first formal introduction and government support of Buddhism in Japan prior to the establishment of the Japanese empire of the Nara Period ( 710 C.E. to 794 C.E.).

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

There’s a lot to love about this temple, but I think the real draw is the surrounding area. The road to the complex is a beautiful tree-covered road with the sweetest little shops that have been in the area since at least the early 20th century. Because the mountain Jindaiji produces a spring a fresh water, the locals have used that water to make delicious and refreshing soba. For those who don’t know, soba is a buckwheat noodle that is very thin and often served in a broth either hot or cold depending on the time of year. The number of soba restaurants is so extensive that there is a statue of the bodhisattva Kannon using her power to protect soba. In her left hand is a container of buckwheat, the grain from which soba noodles are made, and in her right hand is a bottle of tsuyu which is the base for the broth served in most soba dishes. This adorable little shrine was installed in 1963 and celebrated 60 years bringing good luck and health to community in 2023.

Getting to the temple takes a little bit, but not much. It can be reached by bus from either Chofu Station or Kichijoji Station, or from Chofu Station it’s a 20 to 30 minute walk, which I recommend at least trying once because the neighborhoods are so beautiful.

The Main Hall with gilt Amida statue.

The Ganzan Daishi Hall.

Kannon Bodhisattva statue for the protection of SOBA NOODLES!!!!! The left hand hold buckwheat seeds, and the right hand holds a bottle of the broth soba is served in/with.

 

Yama-dera (Risshakuji)

Yamagata Prefecture’s Yama-dera, or Risshakuji as it’s officially named, is one of the most famous temples in the Tohoku region of Japan. Founded in 860 C.E. as a temple of the Tendai sect of Buddhism, it’s specifically noted for being a source of artistic inspiration for famed haiku poet Basho, painters, and for photographers visiting today. The temple is a series of buildings scattered across the sheer cliff face of Mt. Hoju.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 7.

This temple is really a beautiful complex with amazing foliage like massive ceder pines, Japanese maple trees, and other trees that turn the hillsides orange and red in autumn. The stair climb from the valley floor to the upper levels might be a bit steep, but it doesn’t take too long. The added sight of Japanese grandmas taking on the challenge is a shot to near anyone’s ego and is sufficient motivation to keep climbing when the going gets tough, but like many rural temples, there’s plenty of places to stop and catch your breath while looking at the stunning sights around you.

I do have a beef to pick with this temple, and I have to bring it up because it really affected my experience there. The monks at the temple are not nice people. When I asked them a simple question (in Japanese), the monk responded with a short answer that was not welcoming and actually on the verge of being rude. This happened multiple times because as I mentioned before, the temple is a series of buildings spread out across a cliff. I understand that I was one of a large number of tourists visiting that day, but I’ve also been to busier and more remote locations that treated guests like human beings. I was severely disappointed that possibly my one and only visit to this beautiful location was marred by such disreputable staff.

Yama-dera literally means “mountain temple.”

 

Zuiganji

Zuiganji is a temple of the Rinzai-Zen sect of Buddhism in the coastal town of Matsushima just outside of Sendai, Miyagi Prefecture. The temple has gone by several names through its history and its official name now is Shoto Seiryuzan Zuiganempukuzenji, but Zuiganji is the common name. It was founded sometime in the 9th century C.E. and was called Empukuji. It changed names and sects of Buddhism depending on the political control in eastern Japan from the Oshu Fujiwara of the Heian Period, the Hojo of the Kamakura Period, to Date Masamune of the Sengoku and Edo Periods. The main prayer hall (hondo) and living quarters (kuri) are designated as national treasures preserving Momoyama-style (late Sengoku Period) art and architecture.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 6.

Just like its neighbor Entsû-in, Zuiganji is a temple known for its gardens which are especially beautiful in autumn when the leaves change colors. Also at the same time as Entsû-in, Zuiganji hosts nighttime illuminations, particularly of its rock garden which is swathed in changing colors and vibrant laser patterns which highlight the ripples of sand and rock. The main hall has beautiful vibrant paintings and wood carvings.

The temple garden had a laser and light show on the rock garden and walls while live neo-traditional music was being played in the halls behind me.

Not the best photo, but I was obsessed with the way the light rolled off the ripples of rock and stone.

 

Entsû-in

Founded in 1647, Entsû-in was built as the private temple of Date Mitsumune, grandson of renowned warlord Date Masamune. The temple is known for its fall foliage, mirror pond, and Mitsumune’s mausoleum. The leaves, which change between October and mid-November, are also illuminated at night which draws large crowds to the temple. The mausoleum is austentaciously Edo-style architecture intended to represent palace designs, and adorned with carved roses, an import from the west.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 5.

I was able to take a visit to the temple at the height of fall foliage and at one of the nighttime illuminations. I cannot express just how beautiful I thought this temple was. It’s a small building, but the key feature is the garden. Bathed in colored lights with little figures and a bamboo dragon the temple made, it was fun to go from curiosity to curiosity. For me the highlight of it all was the pond. Please believe me when I say I’ve never seen a more effective natural mirror in my life. I tried to photograph it, but they just didn’t do justice to the visual sentation of looking through a ring of stone and into a physical world.

Date Mitsumune’s Mausoleum

The reflection in the pond upside down. I wish these photos came out better, it was an amazingly beautiful sight to see this perfect reflection.