Tokiwa Jinja

In the city of Mito in Ibaraki Prefecture, Tokiwa Jinja is considered one of the major shrines in the prefecture and the most important shrine in the city. Tokiwa Jinja is located just outside of the Kairakuen Gardens, a large garden established by the local Tokugawa Daimyo and filled with plum trees. The shrine was officially founded in 1874 with approval of the government, but a small shrine had existed for longer in the park. Enshrined within are the spirits of Tokugawa Mitsukuni (1628-1701) and Tokugawa Nariaki (1800-1860), both of whom were leaders of the Mito Branch of the Tokugawa shogunate in the Edo Period (1603-1869 C.E.). Of the three Tokugawa family branches in the shogunate, the Mito Branch was not only the smallest, making it the least wealthy and also the least influential, but the lord of the Mito Branch was the only one of the three that was not eligible to be named shogun. But the Mito Branch was not without its influence, partially because of its proximity to the capitol of Edo, but also because of the efforts of our two lords Mitsukuni and Nariaki. Mitsukuni gathered scholars to Mito to compile a comprehensive history of Japan called the Dai Nihonshi, and Nariaki established the Kairakuen Gardens. Their contributions to the city and the prefecture made them revered idols amongst the local population. Once officially enshrined at Tokiwa Jinja, Emperor Meiji gave them deified names Takayuzuru-umashi-michine-mikoto (Mitsukuni) and Oshitake-okuni-no-mitate-mikoto (Nariaki).

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

This is a very easy shrine to get to with a train station just at the base of the hill. Visually, the shrine is a typically lovely shrine. It’s well made with luster and brilliance thanks to support from Emperor Meiji and the government. There are quite a few stairs, so be sure to take some time to rest, but that’s no problem thanks to the surrounding beauty. Genuinly, the shrine is in a massive park filled with plum trees, bamboo groves, and overlooking a lake with large spouts of water firing off in varying visual displays. February is the best time to see the plum blossoms bloom, but there are plenty of things to see all year.

These dolls are for the Hina Matsuri, a nationwide festival on March third every year. The Hina Matsuri is effectively a day to pray for the prosperity of daughters. Every family has variations of these dolls, each with a different meaning and purpose, which is often handed down, or a new set is gifted to young parents from their parents.

The plum blossoms come in a variety of colors from white like these, a light pink like cherries, to a rich magenta.

 

Ôsaki Hachimangû

East of central Sendai in Miyagi Prefecture, Ôsaki Hachimangû is a shrine founded in the Heian Period (794 to 1185 C.E.) by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro who was ordered to lead expansionist campaigns against the Emishi, or “Non-Japanese”, of northern Japan. To pray for success in his battles against Aterui the Great of Emishi, he established a Hachiman shrine in modern Iwate Prefecture. In the Muromachi Period (1336 C.E. to c.1752 C.E.), the Ôsaki family, then governing northern Miyagi Prefecture, moved the shrine to its current location of Tajiri, Ôsaki city. When noted feudal lord Date Masamune founded the city of Sendai, he not only established his own sites of power and worship, but also infused existing locations with funding and repairs culminating in the shrine’s reestablishment around 1607 C.E. with the flourishes that make Ôsaki Hachimangû the famous location that it is today. The shrine is home to Hachiman, the god of victory in battle, and three other key deities, the 15th Emperor Ojin (200 - 310), the 14th Emperor Chuai (149 - 200) and his Empress Jingu (169 - 269). It’s important to note that there is no evidence that these people ever existed, but they are mythical emperors named in the Kojiki to establish the authority of the imperial house. None the less, these royal figures and Hachiman received great support from the clans of the area and ultimately the grand enshrinement that can be seen today thanks to the Date clan. The shrine was listed as a national treasure by the government for its exquisite representation of late Sengoku Period (c. 1470 C.E. to 1608 C.E.) architecture and design.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

Ôsaki Hachimangû is a really beautiful shrine and deserving of its designation as a national treasure. Rich dark wood, flashes of gold finishing, and vibrant explosions of color on carved motifs exemplify the ostentatious art aesthetics of the warrior class. One of my favorite aspects of the shrine is the sprawling walkway through the grove of massive pine trees. Not only is it a wonderful broad expanse of space that encourages deep inhalations of pine-rich air, but it also creates a sense of grandeur and importance which just feels right at a national treasure. There is a line of overhangs with lanterns above the main drag and smaller shrines on one side. I call them smaller shrines, but some are a fairly decent size. This shrine is relatively easy to get to when taking the bus from Sendai Station and only takes about 20 to 30 minutes.

“Hachimangû”

This overhang is temporary, possibly for Shichi-Go-San festivities throughout November.

 

Ôkunitama Jinja

Ôkunitama Jinja is arguably the most significant shrine in western Tokyo Prefecture and is considered one of the Five Major Shrines in Tokyo along with Meiji Jingû, Yasukuni Jinja, Hie Jinja, and Tôkyô Daijingû. The shrine claims to have been built almost two thousand years ago in in 111 C.E. by the oracle of the 12th emperor, Emperor Keikô. However, since Japan does not have a written record prior to the Asuka Period (c. 540 C.E.to 710 C.E.), Emperor Keikô is presumed to be a legendary figure, and the origins of the shrine cannot be verified. On the other hand, the shrine has been noted in the earliest official government documents of the Asuka Period when Tokyo was then called Musashi Provence. The shrine is home to many gods, but the key god enshrined is Ôkunitama which is another name for Ôkuninushi, son of Susanô-ô no kami, and is the heavenly embodiment of Japan (while the living embodiment is the emperor of course). Ôkuninushi’s main shrine is Izumo Taisha in Shimane Prefecture, arguably the holiest shrine in Japan, so for Ôkunitama Jinja to be his home in Eastern Japan is a highly significant establishment. The main festival at Ôkunitama is the Kurayami Matsuri, or the “Darkness Festival,” which takes place every year during Golden Week and reaches its peak on May 5th, the day the shrine was said to have been founded. The festival gathers massive drums, mikoshi (portable shrines), and floats from all across the Kanto Region, and ends with priests riding sacred horses up and down the streets and shooting a target with an arrow for good luck. In Fall, the Kuri Matsuri (chestnut festival) brings equally large crowds with similar events and frivolities taking place.

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 10.

Ôkunitama Jinja is unlikely to be on your list of go-to places when visiting Tokyo, but I cannot recommend it enough. What’s there to miss? The shrine is massive, which is saying something for the crowded landscape that is the Tokyo Megalopolis. When everywhere leaves you feeling claustrophobic and overcrowded, Ôkunitama Jinja is a wide, wooded, relaxing break from it all with minimal crowds outside of festival season. When there are festivals, the shrine becomes heavily inundated with people, food stalls, and floats playing music while dancers wear masks and prance around as their characters. Mikoshi are carried around the neighborhoods, people standing atop giant drums are rolled through the streets, and priests ride sacred horses down the main street at night; what are you waiting for? I mentioned it above too, but the whole festival culminates with the head priest reenacting the shrine’s founding then getting on horseback to shoot a target with an arrow to bring peace for the next year. I say shoot but it’s more like the chief priest sitting on a horse while shooting the visual equivalent of a kid’s toy at a paper target a foot or so away. The horse, meanwhile, is clearly not ok with small flying objects near its face and needs to be held in check by its trainers. I have been very fortunate to live near the shrine and even more fortunate to be able to go to the Kurayami Matsuri multiple times, and for someone who enjoys photography in my spare time, there is so much to photograph particularly when the festival lasts for 4 days. Waiting for several hours between events can be a little rough, but I always love being able to walk around and enjoy the sights and sounds. If you’re in Japan for Golden Week, I highly recommend stopping by this shrine to at least enjoy an event or two.

The main shrine in the midst of the Kurayami Matsuri.

Each neighborhood has one of these giant drums and up to four people stand atop them as they’re pulled by ropes through the town.

On the third day, the mikoshi are paraded through the streets starting in the morning all the way till late at night.

Priests riding horses up and down the street on the penultimate night.

 

Miyagi-ken Gokoku Jinja

I’ve written about these shrines in the past and the Miyagi Gokoku Jinja is no different. This shrine is a branch of the Yasukuni Jinja in central Tokyo, dedicated to honoring those who paid the ultimate sacrifice in survice to the safety and security of the nation. It’s a shrine that deserves our respect regardless of political ideologies.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

There’s not much to share about this shrine. There’s one in each prefecture honoring its citizens and this one is for Miyagi Prefecture. It’s not a shrine that I think people would seek out on their own, but considering it’s on the Sendai Castle grounds, most people will at least walk by it. The one feature which stood out to me was the good luck gourds which you can purchase and write wishes on. There’s a belief that a wish has a higher chance of coming true if you blow it into the gourd. Needless to say, these are not real gourds but wood which has been turned into gourd shape and is not actually hollow, but the sentiment still remains. By blowing your wish into the gourd then leaving it at the shrine, you are effectively entrusting your wish to the gods of the shrine.

 

Yamanaka Suwa Jinja

Yamanaka Suwa Jinja is a small shrine on the banks of Yamanaka Lake dedicated to the safety of children and to the safe birth of children. Many couples visit the shrine for luck concieving and healthy labor.

For the educated: 1. For the casual: 2.

Honestly there’s no real reason to go to this shrine other than to see a lovely little shrine. It’s well built, in a lovely location, and particularly beautiful in the autumn colors.

 

Hakone Jinja

Hakone Jinja is considered one of the most significant shrines in the Kanto region (Tokyo, Kanagawa, Saitama). Founded in 757 C.E., the shrine was founded as a source of good luck and good fortune. It was a shrine that was revered by warlords from Minamoto no Yoshitomo in the Heian/Kamakura Periods, to Tokugawa Ieyasu in the Edo Period. In fact, it was Minamoto no Yoritomo who is credited for boosting the reputation and notoriety of the shrine. It’s said that a giant nine-headed dragon was pacified by the priest of Hakone Jinja, and now that dragon serves the shrine to protect pilgrims and worshipers. Imagery and references can be found throughout the shrine to this dragon, most notably in the form of hand-cleansing basin with nine dragon heads dispensing water. The shrine is most known for its torii standing in the waters of Lake Ashinoko.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

So, to be clear, the only reason this shrine isn’t a 9 or a 10 is purely due to its distance from major hubs. Many people add a day trip to Hakone from Tokyo and in that regard it’s a very easy location to access, but it does require a full day trip. Is it worth it? I certainly think so because Hakone is a beautiful place to hike, bike, drive, bathe, and so much more. Hakone Jinja is certainly no exception to that. For starters, many readers have probably seen this shrine before and just don’t know it. The famous shots of this shrine are from the south shore of Lake Ashinoko looking to the north west where you can get Mt. Fuji and the water torii of Hakone Jinja in one shot. If that sounds familiar, then here you go!

Hakone Jinja is really known for it’s water torii and that means beautiful sights, but also long lines of people taking photos below the gate, by the gate, near the gate, and every other possibility. But that’s only one part of the shrine’s appeal! The shrine is also known for its surrounding forest which is original protected forest area. Some of the ceder pine trees are over 600 years old! In the middle of these amazing giant trees, the shrine stands in vermillion brilliance with gold capped finials. It’s a really amazing shrine with wonderful atmosphere.

The last part of the shrine requires a little bit of travel. The current location of Hakone Jinja actually not the original location, and instead the original shrine is up on the higher slopes of Mt. Hakone. It’s mainly accessable by the Komagatake Hakone Ropeway. The Hakone Mototsumiya Shrine is the original shrine to Mt. Hakone and the sulfur plumes which provides Hakone with its renowned hot springs.