Kenchôji (Kamakura Gozan #1)

Kamakura is famous for two major things in Japanese history: the first warrior government and the first stronghold of Zen Buddhism. Kenchôji is the first of the Kamakura Gozan, the Five Zen Mountains of Buddhism in the city of Kamakura. As the first temple in Japan dedicated to Rinzai Zen practices, it holds a very important place in Japanese history and Buddhist culture. It was founded in 1253 by the fifth Regent Lord of Japan, Hôjô Tokiyori and led by head monk Lanxi Daolong from China. Because of this monumental significance in Zen history, the Ashikaga Shogunate of the 14th to 16th centuries founded the Gozan system to identify the top five most important Zen temples. Only Kamakura and Kyoto are home to their own five Gozan temples of Zen.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 10.

Kenchôji has something for everyone, but the fact that it was the first real temple to Zen Buddhism gives it a bit more of a push. The Kamakura period is my favorite time period in Japan so when I was there I was blown away at the thought that some of my favorite people in Japanese history walked the same paths as me, that we sat on some of the same mats, and prayed in the same halls. Kenchôji is a beautiful temple, but it lacks the level of lavishness which many other major complexes have. Nonetheless, it is a beautiful temple with exquisite woodwork. 

 

Kôtoku-in (Pavilion of the Great Buddha)

Many who have heard something about Japan have probably heard of the Great Buddha of Kamakura. This bronze Amida Buddha is the second largest metal Buddha in Japan, falling short of the Daibutsu in Tôdaiji in Nara (pun intended). However, even though this statue is among the most famous in Japan, it is seated outdoors due to the original structure being damaged by typhoons and a tsunami. 

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 10. 

Really, why would you not go to the Kamakura Daibutsu? Sure it can get crowded in the tourist season and it isn't a very good idea to go inside in summer (because Japanese summers are way too hot), but it is so worth every yen of the 20 needed to enter. And if the weather is right, spend 20 yen to go inside. That's right, 20 yen. Hey, did I mention it only costs 20 yen to enter? The walk from Hase Eki (Hase Station) is packed with fun little shops, and the store managers are some of the most charming people. Have fun and take lots of pictures trying to copy his pose!!!!

Amida Buddha at Kôtoku-in.

 

Sensôji

 Sensô-ji in the city of Asakusa is one of the largest and most famous temple complexes in the Tokyo area both as a historical site but also as a spiritual site. Also referred to as "Kinryû-san" or the Mountain of the Golden Dragon, Sensô-ji has been a spiritually important location in the Kanto plain even before the warrior governments who founded early Tokyo of later years would even exist. The story goes that in 618 two fishermen were fishing in the Sumidagawa River when they pulled up a wooden statue of Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion. After the local dignitary heard of this, he declared that it was a great omen and transformed his own house into the home of the sacred statue. Over the years, the temple received greater and greater patronage prompting the temple to grow from a single building to a complex with multiple halls and divine gates. It is said that in 645, renowned monk Shokai Shonin said that it would be best if the statue of Kannon was hidden from human view, and it has remained so ever since.

For casual visitors: 10. For educated visitors: 10.

Sensô-ji is a must see when visiting Tokyo. Though it caters heavily to tourists, there are still many many fun things to do there. Good restaurants are around every corner and one might even be able to spot the occasional Sumo wrestler getting food. Shopping in the area ranges from the most obvious of tourist souvenirs to some of the more glamorous items including yukata summer gowns, swords, fans, furoshiki decorative cloth for wrapping, and so much more. The Kaminarimon (Lighting Gate) is the first gate of the complex and houses the guardian deities Agyô and Ngyô in the form of Fûjin (Wind God) and Raijin (Lighting God). To the north of the temple visitors can roam through Tokyo's Geisha district, though don't be surprised if you don't catch a glimpse of them; they have many years of practice avoiding the sites of anxious tourists. East is Sumida Park, Tokyo Skytree Tower, and the Asahi Beer HQ. If visiting in early summer, try to go to the Sanja Matsuri which closes down the streets of Asakusa and gets filled with portable shrines, singers, dancers, and lots of game/food booths. 

"Senso-ji | About Senso-ji." Senso-ji | About Senso-ji. Accessed September 28, 2015. http://www.senso-ji.jp/about/index_e.html.

Looking down on the main drag to Sensôji from the Asakusa Tourism Center.

The Kaminarimon (Lightning Gate) with statues of Fujin (Wind God) on the right and Raijin (Lightning God) on the left. The lantern says Kaminarimon.

 

Introduction to Temples

The term "temple", when used in reference to structures in Japan, is associated with structures belonging to Buddhism. Buddhism was introduced to Japan through trade contacts with China and Korea in the sixth century and in comparison to other waves of faith in the world, it was taken in fairly easily. Well, of course there were disputes, but there wasn’t a massive war or religious cleansing which can be found in other parts of world history. Buddhas and Bodhisattva can be passed off as another embodiment of Shinto deities, a fun fact which can be found often if there is a shrine to local deities with a temple nearby.

A common understanding of Japanese culture states that the Japanese "are born by Shinto and die by Buddhism". This is actually correct. Ceremonies regarding birth and marriage in Japan take place at Shinto shrines, but according to Shinto, death is an unholy thing and is not something which is allowed to be interacted with by the living. For this reason, until Buddhism was introduced, there was no singular location or palace for the King of Japan; there are many many sites in the Kansai plain where these ancient mansions are found. With Buddhism, death is a natural part of life and a cleansing ritual is all that is needed to help the spirit of the dead find enlightenment while removing the physical area left behind of any blights. To this affect, to pray for the dead, one prays at a Buddhist temple. 

Buddhist temples are often very easy to identify both by name and by architecture. By name, they will end with "-ji" or with "dera", both of which are readings of the character 寺. Occasionally one might find a place that ends with "-in", but those are often found when referring to a hall within a temple complex. However, any temple which ends with the “-in” title, was once a building serving another perpose, likely the home of a lord or emperor before being converted into a temple. By architecture, temples usually adorn the roofs with tiles and the wood used to construct the complex is stained for longevity. Also, if you see a rock garden or a pagoda: temple. 

There are many souveniers which can be purchased at temples across Japan. First and foremost are souvenirs which mainly consist of good luck charms and the like. These items are often very affordable and are unique to the temple where it was purchased. If the temple has a specific deity which it is known for, images and such of that deity are available for any and all private forms of worship at home. Another souvenir which is highly recommended is the goshuinchô, an item which I have added a page about for greater detail. 

Many temples will have incense pits in front of the main hall. These incense pits are large metal containers usually already filled with piles of ash from years of contributions from visitors. Visitors can purchase a roll of incense usually for 100 yen, which is then lit and added to the pit. Be careful not to blow on the incense since breath is considered tainted or unholy and will be seen as bad luck rather than good. The smoke from incense is supposed to bring good luck and health, so visitors waft the smoke over their heads and to areas that they would like healed. Just be careful of wind direction, otherwise you'll be like me on my first try and be wafting smoke to your eyes to get healed following the burning sensation we all love from smoke. 

Also, a warning. Western visitors will probably get a bit of culture shock when they see the number of swastikas all around Japan. DO NOT PANIC!!!!!! It is understandable that many might view this symbol as a symbol of hate and violence at the hands of the Nazi party in Germany. Though Japan was allied with Germany in WWII, this symbol is not analogous. In Japan, this symbol is called a Manji and is almost the exact opposite in meaning of the German swastika. The manji is essentially the wheel of life with the two vertical arms representing the connection between heaven and earth while the horizontal arms connect light and dark. This symbol is of Hindu origin and embodies how life flows on while keeping everything connected. Visitors will find this symbol on maps to represent the location of a temple, they may be present on souvenirs from temple shops, and they will be on objects around and in the temple. If as a visitor you cannot stand the site of this symbol, it would be best to stick to tourists sites of popular culture rather than historical and spiritual culture in Japan. It is good to know what the swastika means in a Western society, but the manji is far older than Westen culture and is benign in Buddhist society.

Kenchôji in Kamakura.

One of many many Manji found at temples across Japan. This one comes from Sensôji in Asakusa.