Kenninji (Kyoto Gozan #3)

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As one of the premier Zen temples in Kyoto, Kenninji was founded in 1202 by the priest Yôsai which makes it the oldest Zen temple in Kyoto. Kenninji is known for a wide variety of aspects but most notably for its grand architecture, rock gardens, and works of art which are classified as national treasures by the state. 

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 10. 

Oh dear goodness this temple is awesome. First off it's easy to get to. Only a 15 min. walk south of the main street into the Gion District (Shijôdori), you walk through Geisha neighborhoods and traditional city housing to reach the temple. Once you get there, if you're lucky, the famous Fûjin and Raijin painting by Tawaraya Sôtatsu will be on display. If it's not, don't worry, the temple has more than enough to keep you entertained. A hyper-accurate recreation of the painting by Canon Photography is on display near the back of the building. Walk through the halls which have open spaces of trees and moss while hanging scrolls and paintings adorn the wall. On a sunny and hot day, spend some time sitting in the shade by the side of the rock garden and feel the breeze caress you while the garden calls to a deeper spirituality. Want to see a massive painting of dragons? Put on a pair of the slippers provided and cross the path to the Main Hall to view the 800 year anniversary commemorative painting of twin dragons painted in 2002. If you're a history buff like I am, you'll know that between the 14th and 16th centuries Kyoto was plagued with conflict like the Onin War and the Sengoku period. Kenninji was around during those conflicts and so if you make your way to the south gate of the temple, you can see arrow punctures. For this reason, this gate is called the Yamon, the Arrow Gate, and it is the oldest standing part of the temple. Be sure to check out Kenninji if you're ever near the Gion District. 

The temple marker with the name Kenninji in kanji.

The Fûjin (left) and Raijin (right) on display.

This 11.4m x 15.7m painting adorns the ceiling of the Main Hall. The painting was made using the finest traditional paper and sumi ink and was painted by one artist in an elementary school gymnasium in Hokkaido.

 

Chion-in

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On the northern side of Yasuka Jinja in the Gion District, Chion-in is a temple to the Jodo (Pure Land) sect and its founder Honen. The temple is not known for any specific features, but is recognized for receiving extensive patronage from the Tokugawa Shogunate which can be seen in the elaborate architecture of the buildings. 

For the casual: 5. For the educated: 5.

Chion-in is a very beautiful temple despite its apparent lack of accolades. The stairs up to the temple are very steep so I advise caution, but once at the top it's very easy to get around the temple. Unfortunately, the temple was mostly under construction when I was there but if you happen to be there when it's done, it should be well worth it. 

As a special treat, if you are visiting Kyoto on New Year’s Eve, there is a massive bell higher up the hill overlooking the complex which is rung by the monks to cleanse sins, attachments, and to usher in the New Year. Don’t worry, the bell is rung multiple times throughout the night, but a massive line of people forms of visitors wishing to witness a ringing. That being said, the temple guards will stop people from adding onto the line if it gets too long (typically around 10 p.m.) so try to get there early. And naturally, prepare for a very long wait.

 

Shôren-in

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Shôren-in is a Tendai sect temple in the hills just north of the Gion District and Yasuka Jinja. Formerly as a branch temple of the famous Enryakuji on Mt. Hiei, Shôren-in is one of the five Monzeki temples in Kyoto. Temples that earn the title of Monzeki are known for their head priests being members of the Imperial Family. The first head priest was a monk by the name of Gyogen and was later succeeded by the seventh son of Emperor Toba, Prince Kakukaishin-no, who started the lineage of monks from the Imperial Family leading the temple. 

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 5. 

The connection between the Imperial Family and Shôren-in should be more than enough to indicate the level of care and beauty found within the temple. Most of the temple grounds are surrounded by gardens which can be accessed with a ticket from the front office. I apologize for not having any of my own photos of the temple so be sure look it up when you get the chance. 

 

Kurodani Ô-Tera (Konkaikômyôji)

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Kurodani Temple is a Jodo Sect Buddhist temple in northeastern Kyoto just south of Ginkakuji. Founded in 1125, it is home to a statue of the Jodo sect founder Honen, and it is known for its statue of Monju Bosatsu, the Bodhisattva of Wisdom. The temple itself has had an unfortunate history of being susceptible to fires throughout its history. The main hall was rebuilt in 1605 under the patronage of renowned samurai lord Toyotomi Hideyoshi.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 7.

Looking for someplace to go with great views and no crowds? Kurodani Temple is one of my favorite little treasures along the way. It's not easy to get to with out a major bus or subway line nearby, but it is near the end of the Philosopher's Path (a beautiful little stroll for any and all interested) which starts near Ginkakuji and ends just north of the Gion District. Kurodani Temple is actually a rather large temple complex but is hidden behind a small wall of apartment buildings and stores along the street. Situated atop a small hill, visitors have a great view south of the city, other temples nestled in the hills, and the great mountains that surround the Kansai plain. With done, Heian Jingû is a short walk away.