Sumoto-jô is a small castle on the island of Awaji which overlooks the port city of Sumoto. Though largely unused, the castle did spend a brief period of time as the seat of political power on the island. Sumoto would remain the primary city on the island through the Edo Period even after the castle was no longer in use. Traditionally, Awaji Island was its own prefecture throughout Japan’s history with the seat of political power residing in what is now the city of Minamiawaji. For the most part, Awaji was able to remain rather isolated from the political struggles on Honshu, but the Muromachi period signaled a failing in government leadership and control allowing for regional lords to establish themselves as daimyo, lords in command of their own fiefdoms, and individual samurai clans to declare their warlords and seek their fortune and prowess on the battlefield. Awaji was not immune to these advances and the government in Minamiawaji was overthrown. To combat potential threats, fortresses were contrstructed all across the island, mirroring the larger trend in the archipelago. The seat of authority on Awaji jumped around these castles until it finally settled at Sumoto Castle, and to ensure it would not be leaping anytime soon, all other castles and fortifications were demolished. Though the tower keep is no longer standing, a small tower was rebuilt at the summit in 1928 to commemorate the coronation of Emperor Showa, making it the oldest replica tower in Japan. At night the tower is lit with flood lights and is a particularly good spot to watch the summer fireworks.

For visitors: 7.

I’m not going to lie, Sumoto-jô is not a classic castle and never really was. As the last standing of the major fortifications in this rural area, the fear of attack was not the same as with larger townships and the castle reflected that. In the early 17th century the castle was built up when it became the seat of political power on the island, but the following integration of Awaji Prefecture and Awa Prefecture (modern Tokusima Prefecture) plus subsequent regulations regarding fortifications led to the castle grounds being abandoned, material shipped to support Tokushima Castle (the new seat of power for both Awa and Awaji), and then finally falling into dissarray from lack of use. What was rebuilt in the early 20th century was minor decoration and foundation support. The tower is very small and the castle grounds are largely vacant aside from the stone foundations. But I encourage people to come visit this castle because it does have something that few other castles have been able to pull off: atmosphere. At the time that I’m writing this, I live a short drive away and it’s one of my favorite places to just sit, think, and breathe. The tower overlooks Osaka Bay and the beautiful blue waters below make for an exceptional sight. On cloudy or rainy days, the clouds float up the sides of the mountain, sticking to the trees as they make their way. Visitors may even be able to see the occasional monkey if you’re lucky. But all in all, the trees that stand on the grounds, and in some cases even grow through them, are beautiful and healthy. Photographers may find this location particularly nice in autumn when the maple leaves change, but few visitors means better photos with less interference. So don’t expect the grandeur of Himeji, but enjoy everything else this rural castle has to offer.

Awaji Island is known for its own unique style of roof tiles which are prominantly displayed adorning buildings both large and small.