Just outside of the busy shopping and entertainment districts of Kobe sits Minatogawa Jinja, a shrine built in 1872 dedicated to Kusunoki Masashige. Kusunoki was a noted samurai lord in the 14th century and was renowned for his loyalty to Emperor Go-Daigo, the emperor who orchestrated the fall of the Kamakura warrior government in 1333. Following his successful role in returning the emperor to a seat of political power, he was named lord of larger areas of land. However, only a few years later war returned when the Ashikaga family saw an opportunity to turn against the emperor and seize control themselves. In the battle of Minatogawa, near modern Kobe, Kusunoki commanded a large force, but unwise orders from the emperor forced Kusunoki forward into a disadvantagous conflict and his forces were wiped out. Rather than suffer dishonor at the hands of the Ashikaga forces, Kusunoki took his own life where the shrine stands today. As an added honor, a statue of him on horseback stands outside the Emperor’s Palace in Tokyo.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 6.

This shrine really hit me as a nice shrine. Ok, I admit that that’s a bland and mundane review, but bare with me for a moment. It’s not old, it doesn’t have that storied history that many others do, but the design of the buildings and the layout of the complex just made it really nice and relaxing. In every way the shrine is very beautiful with a grand traditional front gate which opens to a long central path lined with trees. A small Inari shrine with vibrant red gates on the right gives a brief accent change with color and style. Komainu (lion dogs) stand guard as Agyô and Ngyô before the steps up to the main shrine and are often cited in other reviews as a highlight of the complex. Because this shrine is so young, it is constructed with modern architecture to resemble a more traditional structure, but it manages to walk that line to satisfy both styles. Gold fittings draw the eye and its contrast to the dark browns and beiges makes it pop even more. It won’t dazzle you with glitz, but it won’t bore you either. All in all the shrine fits into the term “nice” very well. A welcome reprieve from other bustles, I can see myself going there when I’m in the area just to get a breath of air, hopefully hear a ceremony, and practice my photography skills.

Minatogawa Jinja is a popular location for traditional ceremonies like Shichi Go San and weddings, but on a typical day there are few others there, so large crowds are rare except on special occasions like New Years. As an added bonus, a subway station is just outside the front gate and it’s also just a few minutes walk from JR Kobe Station, so it’s easy to get to as well from larger stations like Sannomiya, Osaka, and Himeji.