Hidden on Omishima in the Seto Inland Sea, Oyamazumi Jinja is a far more decorated shrine than many might give it credit for. It’s not known exactly when the shrine was first established, but it is a shrine that has been present on the island as long as people have been living there. Its main enshrined deity is Oyamazumi-no-kami, older brother to Amaterasu-Omikami, and a god of mountains, seas, and warfare. Because of that last point, Oyamazumi Jinja had been a favorite shrine for warriors to pray at for vistory in battle, and to pay their respects in gratitude for a victory, these warriors would donate weapons and armor to the shrine. As a result, the shrine is home to a large number of swords, bows, arrows, spears, and armor, many of which are registered as National Treasures by the Japanese government.

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 11.

I need to start this review by pouring my tears into a bowl for you to bare witness. When I visited, it was during the coronavirus pandemic which meant that many of the shrine’s facilities were either closed or reduced in staff. That means that the museum with all the swords and armor that I was dreaming of seeing was closed to the public in an effort to reduce the chance of transmission. So I’m very sad to say that this review of the shrine is going to be limited to the shrine grounds only and I cannot be of any help or guidance when addressing armor from the 10th century, the breastplate of Tsuruhime, or the countless swords encased in lacquer and gold sheaths. Ugh, I’m tearing up just thinking about it.

The shrine itself has a wonderful air of grandeur, largely befitting a shrine of such renown over the course of history. Buildings of import often influence the layout of the city that surrounds it. European cities will have churches in the center, castle towns of olden times in Japan still dictate extremely confusing street systems today which would have been used to confuse invading forces, and some cities are formed on an axis dictated by a single influential structure. Oyamazumi Jinja is the latter with its central axis from torii to prayer hall also indicating the center road through town. Times have changed and the roads with them, but there is still an unmistakable presence established by the shrine.

Walking to the prayer hall there is a massive sacred tree with a little stone fence marking a minimum distance for viewing. This tree is said to be 3,000 years old and is the sacred heart of the complex while the second one, slightly off to the side, is estimated to be around 2,600 years old. The prayer hall itslef is magnificent with a humble layout but austentacious decorations. Silk banners, gold-plated metal fittings, and intricate wood carvings can be found all throughout the complex.

The last part I wish to speak about is a figure named Tsuruhime. Many people hear her story and liken her to Joan of Arc. She was a teenager and the daughter of the head monk at the shrine. During the Sengoku Period in the 16th century, the shrine was under attack from the Ouchi clan and during this conflict Tsuruhime lost both of her elder brothers followed by her father. Faced with the onslaught from the Ouchi clan, she rallied the island’s forces and led the charge. She established herself not only as the head priest of the shrine, but also claimed to be an avatar of Oyamazumi-no-kami. She was able to successfully repel the invasion and when they tried again later, she stabbed general Takakoto Ohara in the chest. The story goes that his insults were sharp, but not as sharp as the blade she thrust into his chest. Unfortunately her time came to an end not long afterwards; when she learned that her fiance fell in battle, she committed ritual suicide by walking into the sea and drowning. There are several accounts of her deeds, and many contradict the other, but what we do know is that Tsuruhime was a real person who saved her island and the shrine and all while only a teenager. Statues of her are not only located throughout the shrine complex, but you can also find her throughout the town.