Yoshino Jingû

Yoshino Jingû is a fairly new shrine dating back to 1899 when it was constructed per oders of Emperor Meiji to commemorate Emperor Go-Daigo, an emperor of the 14th century. Emperor Go-Daigo was known for overthrowing the Kamakura Bakufu, the first warrior government of Japan, and restoring political power and authority to the Imperial Family for two years under the Kenmu Restoration. Unfortunately Emperor Go-Daigo’s allied warrior clan, the Ashikaga, saw a chance at power and took it, backing a different courtier to be emperor. Go-Daigo fled to the south, established a rival court at Yoshino (which didn’t last long), and passed away soon after. His tombulus is just up the road.

For the casual: 1. For the educated: 7.

This shrine is purely a nerd spot. It’s not a pretty shrine, there are far better shrines and temples in the area, and it’s so new that the only people I can imagine being interested in visiting this shrine are those who understand some of the aspects of the emperor himself and his failed attempt to restore imperial power.

If casual visitors do make their way here, please try to visit in late March/early April when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. Yoshino is famous for the sheer quantity of cherry trees that cover the mountain side.

Outermost gate to the shrine.

 

Kumano Hongû Taisha

Kumano Hongû Taisha is a major shrine located in the mountains on the south side of Wakayama Prefecture. As one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three great shrines of the Kumano area, it is highly regarded by many pilgrims and shares the icon of the yatagarasu, the three-legged raven, an ancient symbol for the imperial family, with its sibling shrines: Kumano-Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The shrine has several satellite shrines nearby which are recommended for visitation to complete the holy cycle of worship.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

I will say, this shrine is not particularly easy to get to without a car. Well, the entire coast is not easy to get to without a car. So ya, having a car is your best option in the long run. But aside from that, it’s a beautiful place to visit. The shrine is surrounded by breathtaking cedar and cypress trees which reach towards the heavens above. Unlike its sibling shrines, Kumano Hongû Taisha is not finished with a sheen of vermilion paint, but rather the natural dark brown of the wood is left as is to blend into the surrounding forests.

Visitors will likely notice the massive torii gate on the other side of the street, and will with good reason be confused why it’s not in front of the actual shrine. Well, funny this is that it IS in front of the actual shrine! Kumano Hongû Taisha was originally built on the banks of the river, but when a flood all but destroyed it in the 19th century, it was moved to its present location atop a small hill. The torii marks the original holy grounds of the shrine all while being the largest torii in the world, standing at 40 meters tall (131 ft.). Practically nothing remains of the original shrine apart from the stonework establishing the shrine layout and two stone shrines that survived the flood. Other satellite shrines include a shrine for the protection of women, and a shrine for the local ancient water well bubbling from the mountain.

Even the komainu are doing their part to reduce the spread of COVID-19!

 

Kumano Hayatama Taisha

Built in the city of Shingu on the eastern coast of Wakayama Prefecture, this grand shrine is one of three sibling shrines in the Kumano area. The shrine likely dates back to the 12th century, but records and artifacts show that worship has been taking place in this region of Japan since at least the 3rd century C.E. This shrine is situated near the mouth of the Kumano-gawa, one of the largest rivers which empties fresh water out of the Kii Mountains. Like its associated shrines, Kumano Hayatama Taisha is home to the yatagarasu, the mythical three-legged raven, an icon closely associated with the imperial family. The shrine is one of many stopping points for pilgrims traveling the Kumano Kodo.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 3.

The big backlash against this shrine is simply its difficult accessability. This shrine, and the associated shrines, are on the far side of Wakayama Prefecture with limited access via public transportation and a long drive almost regardless of where you start. Outside of that, there’s a great deal to enjoy here. Vermillian structures, gold leaf accents, and colorful wood carvings are sure to delight all visitors to the complex. Be sure to pray for good luck at the Nagi-no-Ki, an ancient tree on the grounds estimated to be over 800 years old!

 

Kamigamo Jinja

Kamigamo Jinja is the upper of two shrines dedicated not only the the Kamo-gawa, the Kamo River, but also to the founding of Kyoto itself. The deity enshrined is the three-legged raven, or Yatagarasu in Japanese, and is the primary ancient emblem of the Imperial Family. The Yatagarasu is a very important figure in the culture of Japan as well as a defining character in the history of the Imperial Family. It is said that when the capital of Japan was being moved from Nara, the emperor followed a three-legged raven north to where the city of Heian-kyô (Kyoto) would be founded. After leading the emperor, the raven retired to its home now enshrined as Kamigamo Jinja.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 10.

I can’t believe that it took me five years to see Shimogamo Jinja, the lower shrine, and then move north to the upper shrine. This is one of those places that you see on the map being so far north that you think to yourself, “Hey, I think that is going to be so much trouble getting to that I don’t think it’s worth it.” But that’s just the thing, it’s not hard to get to at all. Whether by taxi, bus, or subway with a little walk, the shrine is actually very easy to get to and I would say quite beautiful too. The trees that line the banks of the Kamo-gawa are mostly cherry trees and so in spring you get the blossoms and in fall the leaves turn red. Granted they don’t have the same colorful attraction that a maple or a ginko tree might impress, but it’s still a lovely change in color.

The shrine stands out from its surroundings because of the vibrant vermillian of its paint. Large torii gates and fences designate the boundaries of the shrine. A long gravel path then leads visitors straight through a lawn to the inner shrine. It is believed that the sport of horse-riding, and the festivals associated with it, began its practice at this shrine, as a result the shrine has a horse-riding festival in late spring. I’m not sure how regular this is, but when I was there, there was a good luck horse in a small stable just outside of the main shrine that you could pay to feed.

The shrine consists of three main sections, the Hoso-dono, the Hashi-dono, and finally the Hon-den. The Hoso-dono is the first building that visitors see after passing through the inner torii. It is known for the two cones of sand which stand in front. These cones of sand are said to have cleansing properties and are kept intact year-round. The Hashi-dono, currently undergoing rennovations, is less a prayer building and more of a formal reception house. The Hashi-dono, as its name suggests, is a building which straddles one of the streams which bisects the shrine grounds. It is also here that a missive from the emperor is put on display when he sends his good wishes for the Aoi Matsuri every year. The Hon-den, the main shrine, is the final building with two gates, the Ro-mon and the Chu-mon. The Chu-mon is only opened at New Years so most people are only familiar with the Ro-mon. Inside are enshrined the spirits of not only the Yatagarasu, but also the local deities of the area which have been worshipped since prehistoric times.

I visited in November during Shichi-Go-San, a one month period when families pray for the health of their children. Therefore, many of the people are dressed in suits and dresses with the children wearig special kimono. Center right is a young boy in one such kimono with his father learning to bow at the torii.

Lucky horse!

The Hoso-dono and the sacred cones of sand.