Izanagi Jingû

Izanagi Jingû is a shrine of immense importance to the Shinto mythology, and yet it is largely overlooked. Rumored to be the oldest shrine in Japan as dictated by the Nihon Shoki and Kojiki, this holy site is dedicated to Izanagi-no-kami, one of the two gods who created the islands and whose progeny were the kami of the nation. After the loss of his wife Izanami-no-kami, Izanagi-no-kami settled on the first island they created: Awaji-no-honosawake-no-shima (Awaji Island).

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

Izanagi Jingû is a beautiful shrine with a koi pond, some gardens and great architecture. The layout is very clean and easy to explore, and a lack of crowds makes it a wonderful place to visit. There is a massive camphor tree which is almost 500 years old which is said to bring good luck with love and relationships. I will say this shrine is not easy to get to without some rural bus routes or a car, so it’s not the most accessable in that regard, but the town is lovely and the people are so kind. If you are visiting Awaji Island, I can’t think of a reason not to visit.

I couldn’t find any concrete information in either Japanese or in English confirming when the shrine was built or references to noted figures who paid tribute to the shrine. What I did find was a note saying that most of the buildings date back to the Meiji Period (1868-1912 C.E.). Just based on inference and supposition, I theorize that there had been a shrine in the area for as long as people can remember, but it was never this grand complex, but more likely a small shack in a grove of trees that people passed by. Strangely enough, that isn’t as uncommon as you’d think. There are lots of shrines to noted figures, locations, or events that don’t get the same love: Onokorojima Jinja, Iya Jinja, and Tsukuyomi-gû to name a few. Furthermore, there is a fresh sheen to the complex and in a way it also seems to be in conflict with the homely-ness of the surrounding town. It’s not like they realized they needed a shrine and just conjured one into existence in a random location. Therefore, I believe that this shrine was given a massive updo in the Meiji Restoration, small shack to grand shrine, for reasons I will explain in a moment. There is a noticeable correlation between important holy sites and the towns that surround them. Roads line up with the main gates, shops are nearby to cater to visitors, and more, all to say that there is a natural flow to both the site and the surrounding area. With Izanagi Jingû, that flow doesn’t seem to exist which leads me to believe that its construction was not only recent, but it was also sudden. Throughout history, Awaji has received special distinction from the imperial family and the island was known for providing much of the high-quality foods sent daily to the palace in Kyoto. Additionally, Awaji’s mythological significance isn’t a mystery, so it makes sense that there was a shrine ever present in the Taga district, but for whatever reason it didn’t receive the patronage and notoriety as other holy sites like Ise or Izumo. However, it’s well known that during Japan’s rapid modernization under Emperor Meiji, the Shinto religion was given a facelift so it could be used as propaganda to imperialize and expand. I’m sure that during this time Izanagi Jingû was updated to the complex it is now but something about it tells me that it was all very spur of the moment. Again, this is only my hypothesis based on available information.

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Tokiwa Jinja

In the city of Mito in Ibaraki Prefecture, Tokiwa Jinja is considered one of the major shrines in the prefecture and the most important shrine in the city. Tokiwa Jinja is located just outside of the Kairakuen Gardens, a large garden established by the local Tokugawa Daimyo and filled with plum trees. The shrine was officially founded in 1874 with approval of the government, but a small shrine had existed for longer in the park. Enshrined within are the spirits of Tokugawa Mitsukuni (1628-1701) and Tokugawa Nariaki (1800-1860), both of whom were leaders of the Mito Branch of the Tokugawa shogunate in the Edo Period (1603-1869 C.E.). Of the three Tokugawa family branches in the shogunate, the Mito Branch was not only the smallest, making it the least wealthy and also the least influential, but the lord of the Mito Branch was the only one of the three that was not eligible to be named shogun. But the Mito Branch was not without its influence, partially because of its proximity to the capitol of Edo, but also because of the efforts of our two lords Mitsukuni and Nariaki. Mitsukuni gathered scholars to Mito to compile a comprehensive history of Japan called the Dai Nihonshi, and Nariaki established the Kairakuen Gardens. Their contributions to the city and the prefecture made them revered idols amongst the local population. Once officially enshrined at Tokiwa Jinja, Emperor Meiji gave them deified names Takayuzuru-umashi-michine-mikoto (Mitsukuni) and Oshitake-okuni-no-mitate-mikoto (Nariaki).

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

This is a very easy shrine to get to with a train station just at the base of the hill. Visually, the shrine is a typically lovely shrine. It’s well made with luster and brilliance thanks to support from Emperor Meiji and the government. There are quite a few stairs, so be sure to take some time to rest, but that’s no problem thanks to the surrounding beauty. Genuinly, the shrine is in a massive park filled with plum trees, bamboo groves, and overlooking a lake with large spouts of water firing off in varying visual displays. February is the best time to see the plum blossoms bloom, but there are plenty of things to see all year.

These dolls are for the Hina Matsuri, a nationwide festival on March third every year. The Hina Matsuri is effectively a day to pray for the prosperity of daughters. Every family has variations of these dolls, each with a different meaning and purpose, which is often handed down, or a new set is gifted to young parents from their parents.

The plum blossoms come in a variety of colors from white like these, a light pink like cherries, to a rich magenta.

Ôsaki Hachimangû

East of central Sendai in Miyagi Prefecture, Ôsaki Hachimangû is a shrine founded in the Heian Period (794 to 1185 C.E.) by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro who was ordered to lead expansionist campaigns against the Emishi, or “Non-Japanese”, of northern Japan. To pray for success in his battles against Aterui the Great of Emishi, he established a Hachiman shrine in modern Iwate Prefecture. In the Muromachi Period (1336 C.E. to c.1752 C.E.), the Ôsaki family, then governing northern Miyagi Prefecture, moved the shrine to its current location of Tajiri, Ôsaki city. When noted feudal lord Date Masamune founded the city of Sendai, he not only established his own sites of power and worship, but also infused existing locations with funding and repairs culminating in the shrine’s reestablishment around 1607 C.E. with the flourishes that make Ôsaki Hachimangû the famous location that it is today. The shrine is home to Hachiman, the god of victory in battle, and three other key deities, the 15th Emperor Ojin (200 - 310), the 14th Emperor Chuai (149 - 200) and his Empress Jingu (169 - 269). It’s important to note that there is no evidence that these people ever existed, but they are mythical emperors named in the Kojiki to establish the authority of the imperial house. None the less, these royal figures and Hachiman received great support from the clans of the area and ultimately the grand enshrinement that can be seen today thanks to the Date clan. The shrine was listed as a national treasure by the government for its exquisite representation of late Sengoku Period (c. 1470 C.E. to 1608 C.E.) architecture and design.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

Ôsaki Hachimangû is a really beautiful shrine and deserving of its designation as a national treasure. Rich dark wood, flashes of gold finishing, and vibrant explosions of color on carved motifs exemplify the ostentatious art aesthetics of the warrior class. One of my favorite aspects of the shrine is the sprawling walkway through the grove of massive pine trees. Not only is it a wonderful broad expanse of space that encourages deep inhalations of pine-rich air, but it also creates a sense of grandeur and importance which just feels right at a national treasure. There is a line of overhangs with lanterns above the main drag and smaller shrines on one side. I call them smaller shrines, but some are a fairly decent size. This shrine is relatively easy to get to when taking the bus from Sendai Station and only takes about 20 to 30 minutes.

“Hachimangû”

This overhang is temporary, possibly for Shichi-Go-San festivities throughout November.

Ôkunitama Jinja

Ôkunitama Jinja is arguably the most significant shrine in western Tokyo Prefecture and is considered one of the Five Major Shrines in Tokyo along with Meiji Jingû, Yasukuni Jinja, Hie Jinja, and Tôkyô Daijingû. The shrine claims to have been built almost two thousand years ago in in 111 C.E. by the oracle of the 12th emperor, Emperor Keikô. However, since Japan does not have a written record prior to the Asuka Period (c. 540 C.E.to 710 C.E.), Emperor Keikô is presumed to be a legendary figure, and the origins of the shrine cannot be verified. On the other hand, the shrine has been noted in the earliest official government documents of the Asuka Period when Tokyo was then called Musashi Provence. The shrine is home to many gods, but the key god enshrined is Ôkunitama which is another name for Ôkuninushi, son of Susanô-ô no kami, and is the heavenly embodiment of Japan (while the living embodiment is the emperor of course). Ôkuninushi’s main shrine is Izumo Taisha in Shimane Prefecture, arguably the holiest shrine in Japan, so for Ôkunitama Jinja to be his home in Eastern Japan is a highly significant establishment. The main festival at Ôkunitama is the Kurayami Matsuri, or the “Darkness Festival,” which takes place every year during Golden Week and reaches its peak on May 5th, the day the shrine was said to have been founded. The festival gathers massive drums, mikoshi (portable shrines), and floats from all across the Kanto Region, and ends with priests riding sacred horses up and down the streets and shooting a target with an arrow for good luck. In Fall, the Kuri Matsuri (chestnut festival) brings equally large crowds with similar events and frivolities taking place.

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 10.

Ôkunitama Jinja is unlikely to be on your list of go-to places when visiting Tokyo, but I cannot recommend it enough. What’s there to miss? The shrine is massive, which is saying something for the crowded landscape that is the Tokyo Megalopolis. When everywhere leaves you feeling claustrophobic and overcrowded, Ôkunitama Jinja is a wide, wooded, relaxing break from it all with minimal crowds outside of festival season. When there are festivals, the shrine becomes heavily inundated with people, food stalls, and floats playing music while dancers wear masks and prance around as their characters. Mikoshi are carried around the neighborhoods, people standing atop giant drums are rolled through the streets, and priests ride sacred horses down the main street at night; what are you waiting for? I mentioned it above too, but the whole festival culminates with the head priest reenacting the shrine’s founding then getting on horseback to shoot a target with an arrow to bring peace for the next year. I say shoot but it’s more like the chief priest sitting on a horse while shooting the visual equivalent of a kid’s toy at a paper target a foot or so away. The horse, meanwhile, is clearly not ok with small flying objects near its face and needs to be held in check by its trainers. I have been very fortunate to live near the shrine and even more fortunate to be able to go to the Kurayami Matsuri multiple times, and for someone who enjoys photography in my spare time, there is so much to photograph particularly when the festival lasts for 4 days. Waiting for several hours between events can be a little rough, but I always love being able to walk around and enjoy the sights and sounds. If you’re in Japan for Golden Week, I highly recommend stopping by this shrine to at least enjoy an event or two.

The main shrine in the midst of the Kurayami Matsuri.

Each neighborhood has one of these giant drums and up to four people stand atop them as they’re pulled by ropes through the town.

On the third day, the mikoshi are paraded through the streets starting in the morning all the way till late at night.

Priests riding horses up and down the street on the penultimate night.

Miyagi-ken Gokoku Jinja

I’ve written about these shrines in the past and the Miyagi Gokoku Jinja is no different. This shrine is a branch of the Yasukuni Jinja in central Tokyo, dedicated to honoring those who paid the ultimate sacrifice in survice to the safety and security of the nation. It’s a shrine that deserves our respect regardless of political ideologies.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

There’s not much to share about this shrine. There’s one in each prefecture honoring its citizens and this one is for Miyagi Prefecture. It’s not a shrine that I think people would seek out on their own, but considering it’s on the Sendai Castle grounds, most people will at least walk by it. The one feature which stood out to me was the good luck gourds which you can purchase and write wishes on. There’s a belief that a wish has a higher chance of coming true if you blow it into the gourd. Needless to say, these are not real gourds but wood which has been turned into gourd shape and is not actually hollow, but the sentiment still remains. By blowing your wish into the gourd then leaving it at the shrine, you are effectively entrusting your wish to the gods of the shrine.

Yamanaka Suwa Jinja

Yamanaka Suwa Jinja is a small shrine on the banks of Yamanaka Lake dedicated to the safety of children and to the safe birth of children. Many couples visit the shrine for luck concieving and healthy labor.

For the educated: 1. For the casual: 2.

Honestly there’s no real reason to go to this shrine other than to see a lovely little shrine. It’s well built, in a lovely location, and particularly beautiful in the autumn colors.