Yuki Jinja

Located near the base of Kurama-san in northern Kyoto, this 8th century shrine was moved to its current location from the heart of the city. The shrine is dedicated to the god of the mountain and is known for the absolutely massive cedar tree which stands before its gates.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 3.

To be honest, this shrine is very small and there isn’t much to see. Making the journey to this shrine is really a journey to visit Kurama-dera, the temple higher up on the mountain. In fact, Yuki Jinja is the first major stop along the climb to the temple, only a little ways past the tram. But for its small grounds and largely passable décor, Yuki Jinja is known for its fire festival on October 22nd of every year. The Kurama Fire Festival is a sight I have yet to see myself, but it looks amazing with people running truly enormous torches they carry, each one easily larger than the person carrying them. In recent years the festival has been cancelled due to the corona virus pandemic, but as of this post in early 2022, here’s to hoping it will happen this year.

 

Kashihara Jingû

Kashihara Jingû is a grand shrine complex on the south side of Nara Prefecture near the site of the first permanent capital of Japan established in the 6th century C.E. Though founded in 1889 by Emperor Meiji, the shrine is dedicated to Emperor Jimmu, the first emperor of Japan. Though Emperor Jimmu likely wasn’t a real person, he still represents the foundation of the Japanese monarchy, state, and nation. It was said that he established his throne where the shrine is built today, and to make it official, Emperor Meiji donated several buildings from the palace in Kyoto to serve the shrine, one of which is used at the Main Shrine Hall (Honden).

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

There is no need to know the purpose of this shrine to enjoy its sprawling walkways, grand period-appropriate architecture, and thick woods. I would argue that it’s more beneficial to know that it’s to commemorate a major step forward in the development of early Japan, but I’m a nerd so I think that of everything. Bottom line is, this shrine in beautiful, it’s easy to enjoy and appreciate, and it’s easy to relax on a little stroll.

The streets are particularly packed for festivals, the festivities of New Years (hatsumôde) are the largest in the prefecture, but the path is so wide it doesn’t really affect you.

 

Yoshino Jingû

Yoshino Jingû is a fairly new shrine dating back to 1899 when it was constructed per oders of Emperor Meiji to commemorate Emperor Go-Daigo, an emperor of the 14th century. Emperor Go-Daigo was known for overthrowing the Kamakura Bakufu, the first warrior government of Japan, and restoring political power and authority to the Imperial Family for two years under the Kenmu Restoration. Unfortunately Emperor Go-Daigo’s allied warrior clan, the Ashikaga, saw a chance at power and took it, backing a different courtier to be emperor. Go-Daigo fled to the south, established a rival court at Yoshino (which didn’t last long), and passed away soon after. His tombulus is just up the road.

For the casual: 1. For the educated: 7.

This shrine is purely a nerd spot. It’s not a pretty shrine, there are far better shrines and temples in the area, and it’s so new that the only people I can imagine being interested in visiting this shrine are those who understand some of the aspects of the emperor himself and his failed attempt to restore imperial power.

If casual visitors do make their way here, please try to visit in late March/early April when the cherry blossoms are in bloom. Yoshino is famous for the sheer quantity of cherry trees that cover the mountain side.

Outermost gate to the shrine.

 

Kumano Hongû Taisha

Kumano Hongû Taisha is a major shrine located in the mountains on the south side of Wakayama Prefecture. As one of the Kumano Sanzan, the three great shrines of the Kumano area, it is highly regarded by many pilgrims and shares the icon of the yatagarasu, the three-legged raven, an ancient symbol for the imperial family, with its sibling shrines: Kumano-Nachi Taisha and Kumano Hayatama Taisha. The shrine has several satellite shrines nearby which are recommended for visitation to complete the holy cycle of worship.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

I will say, this shrine is not particularly easy to get to without a car. Well, the entire coast is not easy to get to without a car. So ya, having a car is your best option in the long run. But aside from that, it’s a beautiful place to visit. The shrine is surrounded by breathtaking cedar and cypress trees which reach towards the heavens above. Unlike its sibling shrines, Kumano Hongû Taisha is not finished with a sheen of vermilion paint, but rather the natural dark brown of the wood is left as is to blend into the surrounding forests.

Visitors will likely notice the massive torii gate on the other side of the street, and will with good reason be confused why it’s not in front of the actual shrine. Well, funny this is that it IS in front of the actual shrine! Kumano Hongû Taisha was originally built on the banks of the river, but when a flood all but destroyed it in the 19th century, it was moved to its present location atop a small hill. The torii marks the original holy grounds of the shrine all while being the largest torii in the world, standing at 40 meters tall (131 ft.). Practically nothing remains of the original shrine apart from the stonework establishing the shrine layout and two stone shrines that survived the flood. Other satellite shrines include a shrine for the protection of women, and a shrine for the local ancient water well bubbling from the mountain.

Even the komainu are doing their part to reduce the spread of COVID-19!