Hirano Jinja

Located in the center north of Kyoto next to Kitano Tenmangû, Hirano Jinja is a small and largely unassuming shrine. However, it does have a long and storied history being closely connected to the imperial family and the capitol. The shrine was originally constructed in the Nara Period but was moved to its present location with the founding of the Heian capital in the late 8th century. The shrine is home to the god that protects the imperial kitchen. Today, the shrine is noted for being full of cherry trees, and is a popular hang for students attending Ritsumeikan University.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 2.

There are actually a lot of reasons to drop by this shrine if you’re in the area, and it’s very easy to be in the area; hence the higher grading. Just to the north is Kinkakuji and across the street is Kitano Tenmangû which makes this shrine easily accessible from two of the most popular locations in northern Kyoto. Once there, the shrine is a lovely collection of well-crafted buildings which exemplify Kyoto religious architecture while also providing seasonal beauty in spring and autumn. One of my personal highlights are the aristocratic toilet signs for men and women, just because it’s fun to see a place have a fun take on otherwise mundane signage.

I apologize for the lack of photos. It was very humid and my camera lens fogged up almost immediately and didn’t acclimate for another hour by which I was down the road at other places.

 

Akô Ôishi Jinja

Originally the residence of Ôishi Kuranosuke, the land was converted into a shrine to commemorate the revenge plot organized by Ôishi and his 46 fellow comrades. The plot is known as the Ako Incident but is more well known in Japan as Chushingura, and in the west as the 47 Ronin. Because Kuranosuke was a high ranking samurai, his residence was just down the road from the castle gate making the correlation between the two unmistakable: this is a warrior’s shrine.

For the casual: 5. For the educated: 9.

I stopped myself from giving this shrine a 10 only because the distance one needs to travel to get to the shrine as well as the lack of noteworthy locations nearby (I’m lumping the shrine and the castle grounds together here). The shrine is lovely which is why I think people should give it a serious chance, but I also think that on the larger scale of things, it’s the story that makes this such a great place. If you are unfamiliar with the story, I invite you to read my post about Sengakuji in Tokyo. For now at least, I’ll say that the tale of these warriors is about insult, honor, and redemption on a heroic level. If you know the story, it’s hard not to feel the waves of emotions as you walk around, signs and pictures telling the story, and the statues of the 47 lining the walkway to the main gate. Past the main gate there is an area where guests can purchase snacks, drinks, and souvenirs. There are also barrels of sake to be opened on New Year’s, small statues of the animal zodiac, and lines to hang omikuji (fortune telling papers).

The main shrine can be divided into two sections: there’s the shrine itself and the shrine museum. The shrine itself is quite lovely and the current year’s zodiac animal is on display. If you follow a path that goes around the wall of the shrine to the left, there are images and placards explaining the story of the Akô warriors. The path leads by the remains of sacred trees long felled and now only marked by countless coins squeezed into any available crack for good luck. The shrine museum requires an entry fee, but it’s full of artifacts from the story and from the real people. As a bonus, visitors can get their photo taken with a large drum that says Chushingura, the kabuki drama based on the Akô Incident.

 

Motoise Kono Jinja

Motoise Kono Jinja, or simply Kono Jinja, is an imperial shrine just north of a sand bar Amanohashidate in northern Kyoto Prefecture. The shrine was the original home of Toyo’uke Ômikami, the goddess of agriculture and the companion of Amaterasu Ômikami, sun goddess and matriarch of the imperial family. Toyo’uke Ômikami was moved from Kono Jinja to her current residence at Ise at Gekû.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 4.

If your plan is to travel out of Kyoto or Osaka to see some of the most holy shrines in the country, you may as well make the trip to Ise to see the real ones instead of the holy sites where the gods USED to live. I’m aware that I’m being harsh, but I just don’t see a casual or an educated visitor making the trip to this shrine without being drawn by the far more enjoyable activities offered in the Amanohashidate area.

That being said, the shrine is nice and clean. It’s styled in the traditional architecture you’d see at Ise. The grounds were recently refurbished, so the stone baths are clean cut and bright, the gold leaf flickers in the sunlight, and the refreshing scent of cedar hangs in the air.

 

Amanohashidate Jinja

Located in the middle of Amanohashidate, a long sandbar dividing a bay in northern Kyoto Prefecture, this shrine of the same name is not only dedicated to the unique landmass, but also the heavenly bridge for which it’s named. It was said that the god Izanagi-no-kami would cross the bridge to heaven every day between the mortal world that he and his wife made, and the realms of heaven where his wife waited for him.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 4.

There really isn’t much reason to visit this shrine despite the mythology it represents. It’s far from any real city, it’s not manned by any staff or priests, and it’s very small in size that despite standing in the middle of the trail along the sandbar, there’s still a chance to miss it. All of that being said, it’s very beautiful and has weathered very nicely. Dark wood, spots of moss, and shaded by gorgeous cypress trees bring out the natural beauty of the shrine.