Saijo Inari-san Myokyoji

Ok, so I’m not going to lie, this is a shrine, so why would I put it here? Well, the answer to that is because when I visited, it felt more like a temple than a shrine. There is a massive temple hall as well as burial halls, and then behind all that are a series of small shrines. Every major structure in the complex was a purely Buddhist building and everything related to shinto was small and in the back. I’ll gladly accept criticism from anyone that says that this should be a shrine instead of a temple, and who knows, maybe I’ll switch it over, but until then the most prominent and lasting impression was that it was a temple, despite the massive torii down the street.

Saijo Inari-san Myokyoji is a temple/shrine complex in the Kibi Plain in Okayama Prefecture. The complex is best known for being one of the Three Great Inari Shrines along with Fushimi Inari Taisha in Kyoto, and Toyokawa Inari in Aichi Prefecture. It now is mostly known for the buddhist services it provides for the area at Myokyoji founded by Ho-on Daishi, a monk of the Tendai sect of Buddhism. The temple would later change sects in the 17th century when it was rebuilt.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 5.

I think the most interesting thing about this location is the knowledge that before the separation of temples and shrines during the Meiji Restoration in the 19th century, this is how all religious sites were set up. Every complex was a composition of shinto and buddhist buildings and practices. Some complexes focused on one belief over another, but all in all there was some aspect of both faiths to each place. But what can I say, Saijo Inari is certainly a break from the traditional mold, but that also makes it rather off-putting in my mind. There is a small shopping street at the front of the complex, but it appeared to be largely abandoned almost like in a post-apocalyptic scene. Then there’s the main building which is for the buddhist rites, but is also adorned with a shimenawa (shinto rope) above the doorframe. Behind the main building is a small shrine to finding love with the original main hall of the temple behind that. The original main hall is far more modest than the current one, but this is also where I have the most problem with calling this complex a shrine: though the original main hall is surrounded by small fox shrines to Inari, the main buildings are all dedicated to Buddhist practices.

In the surrounding hills are a variety of other small buildings and monuments, but overall they’re just not really that necessary to see if you’re not interested. And that was my problem with this complex, I really had trouble finding much of a spark of interest to the location. I enjoyed the original main hall and the surrounding Inari shrines, but besides that I was just not interested. Perhaps if I visited again when the pandemic is over I will be able to find a greater interest in everything, but I really I just wasn’t that amazed with the layout, the art, architecture, or history.

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