Senkoji

Senkoji is a rather extraordinary temple on Awaji Island, a kind of temple I didn’t know about until later. For one, the temple sits at the summit of Senzan, one of the tallest mountains on Awaji and said to be the first mountain created by the gods in Japan’s origin myth. Because it’s so tall and rather solitary in its local, it’s sometimes referred to as “Awaji Fuji” by local residents. The temple is home to Senju Kannon, the thousand-armed Kannon Bodhisattva.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 6

I didn’t realize it until later, but I had never been to a temple sitting at the summit of a mountain before. I kind of thought that would be something I had done somewhere in my travels, but until I think of one, I haven’t. I’ve been to places with a temple near the summit, ususally just down the hill a ways, but never at the very summit.  You’d think that with how auspicious the summit of a mountain is that there would be more temples at the top, but apparently not. Shrines on the other hand are a bit different because although a mountain shrine will have the main facilities at the base or even near the top, the summit usually has at least a small altar or home for the god.

Anyways, I did enjoy my little excursion to the summit to visit Senkoji. It’s a lovely little temple with great views of the surrounding island (if maintenance has clipped a tree or two). Many stray cats were there lounging in the sun while a great flurry of bugs whistled by in the summer heat. There are several flights of stairs to the summit and each level has a building or two. I’m still not sure if a goshuin can be purchased at the temple, but a goshuincho is available.

The temple itself is quite lovely for its small size with a four story pagoda which is visible from the town below, a bronze bell, and a main hall flanked by two stone boars. Up here, there was a facinating swarm of dragonflies darting through the air. Walking around the summit, it became easy to understand why there is a shrine to Amaterasu-Omikami, the sun goddess.

Senkoji is certainly a difficult location to get to without a car, and the climb, although not particularly long, is steep. For those visiting from off the island, I would recommend a bus ride to Sumoto and then hiring a taxi to take you to the mountain top. Therefore I’m not positive I can convince most people to take the time to visit this remote location, but I enjoyed my time and for that I’m content.

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Honpukuji

Built in 1991, this temple is very different from the vast majority of other entries I have written about so far. The draw for this temple is not the history, the treasures, or even the location really, it's for the architecture. There are many architects that have built inspiring structures around the world, and in Japan arguably the most influential and well known architect is none other than Tadao Ando. This is certainly one of his more curious projects considering what and where this building is. I couldn't find any concrete information as to why Ando-san took on this project, but we are all the more grateful for it. What I did find was that Ando is a Kansai native and many of the projects he works on are in the Kansai area. Considering where the temple is located and what you can see from the hill crest it stands on, it's possible that he worked on this temple because of the view and because he had worked on other projects on Awaji Island. The temple is not the easiest to get to simply because the public transportation to get there is a little clunky, but if you have a car it's very easy to get to. Honpukuji is in the city of Awaji on the Island of Awaji which is just south of Kobe. The temple itself is close to another one of Ando's awe inspiring designs, the Awaji Westin Hotel. The temple is a small part of a slightly larger complex belonging to the Shingon sect.

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 1

Temple? check. Goshuin? check. Great view? check. Designed by world renowned architect Tadao Ando? Wait that's a check too? HOLY COW THAT'S AMAZING!!! That's right folks, for just 400 yen you too can walk inside this amazing modern temple just south of the Westin Awaji Hotel on Awaji Island. And as a bonus, the temple is built underneath a lotus pond which funnels light from the sun into the temple to create a natural halo of light behind the effigies inside! Think it can't get any better? You're wrong! Walk out of the temple and you're faced with a breath-taking view of Osaka Bay!

Ok, to be honest, I love this temple and I love how it is an amazingly beautiful retreat from the world, but I do need to say that it's not a place that I can see many tourists visiting, not because they wouldn't be interested or that the temple has anything less to offer than an inspiring experience, but simply because this temple is not in or really near a major city. Although visitors can see Kobe from the small parking lot, I've been one to experience how painfully isolating Awaji Island can be. The island is not connected by train, the bus system is infrequent on the island since most inhabitants have cars, and the cost to cross the bridge is enough to deter anyone that is only casually curious to visit. So unless the visitor has more than a mild curiousity, then the temple is simply not a practical place to visit. But here's the thing, it is a place to visit. It's an incredible place to visit. Make Honpukuji one of several stops on your trip around Awaji Island. Stop in some resorts for spa relaxation, spend the night or just explore the Awaji Westin Hotel, and visit the farming communities of the island which are home to some of the nicest people I have ever met in my life. So go to Honpukuji and enjoy a beautiful day full of hidden surprises because it's worth crossing that bridge.

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