Nanzenji
Located on the slopes of Higashiyama in Kyoto, Nanzenji is one of the most prominant Rinzai Zen temples in Kyoto. Unfortunately, due to the various raids and civil wars that took place in Kyoto during the Muromachi Period (1333-1573 C.E.) the temple was burned down multiple times. The oldest building standing dates back to the Sengoku Period following the Muromachi Period.
For the casual: 6. For the educated: 8.
I would describe this as one of the more diffucult temples to evaluate in the Kyoto area because of it being in Kyoto. The buildings and temple grounds are beautiful, and of course I’ll go into more detail with that, but because it’s in Kyoto, I wouldn’t recommend this temple as a must see. If anything, I would agrue that it’s a great temple to go to when you’ve come to visit a second or third time and you’ve already done the major locations in the city. Essentially, I believe that this temple is most beautiful when visitors have time to really soak it in, not when they are pressed for time. Because of that, I think I graded it a little on the lower side of things.
I also wish to note, that I believe that visiting Nanzenji is the perfect ending to following the Philosopher’s Path. If you are unfamiliar with this path, it’s a street/trail that follows a stream of spring water from the mountains into central Kyoto while being lined the whole way with cherry trees. Typically I enjoy starting the walk after a quick visit to Ginkakuji, then I follow it down to Nanzenji for a short rest under the cool trees.
Nanzenji is a temple of natural beauty mixed with waves of new architecture. Tall gates copy the grandeur of the pine trees, cherry and maple trees decorate the stone paths, and lush moss clings to the red brick of the aquaduct running through. The exterior beauty of the temple is free to access and very fun to walk around. Typically there are people lounging by the aquaduct on short benches while kids go fishing for crawdads in the cold spring waters. In spring a dance of cherry blossoms flutter through the air, sometimes traveling a great distance from their home trees. In autumn, maple leaves add sharp dashes of color to the otherwise very dimure temple grounds.
The really important visuals to see require a ticket which I believe is around 800 yen. With this ticket, visitors will gain access to the quarters of the head priest which are surrounded by some of the most famous rock gardens and screen paintings in Japan. For this reason I think anyone with a background in Japanese art history will appreciate this temple more. The paintings are done by the Kano school and it’s easy to see the connection that Kano developed with the Rinpa school of art. Some screens follow the traditional Kano school style of white screens black ink, while the majority of screens mirror the samurai influence and extravagant style of bright colors and swaths of gold. Seasonal screens depict birds, snow, flowers, and a variety of scenes that inspire a sense of wonder and serenity.