Onsenji

Onsenji, literally meaning “hot spring temple,” is a temple to the healing powers of the hot spring waters that are used at the seven renowned bath houses in the coastal town of Kinosaki in Hyogo Prefecture. The temple was founded in 738 C.E. by imperial decree, establishing Onsenji as the first guardian deity of Kinosaki. The Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva is the primary guardian of the town and the waters are considered to have special healing powers.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

The story goes that visitors to the baths of Kinosaki were not allowed entry to the baths unless that had received a wooden ladle from the temple. The waters were considered holy, and there was a respect with which bathers needed to behave if they were to truly receive the healing powers of the water. This ladle would not only function to bathe in the “proper” way, but also as a ticket to enter the baths. Today, such strict guidelines are no longer followed, nor is the method of bathing traditionally required within the baths. However, all of this good luck and knowledge is available from the main temple hall halfway up the mountain slope. However, if any visitor would like to learn the traditional method of bathing in these waters, there are pamphlets, guides, and even little comics available for purchase, or even included with your purchases in the town. Ladles are also still available from the temple, though more than likely they will be obtained from the various gift shops and bathhouses, in town.

It’s important to note that there are several buildings that belong to Onsenji, but they are spread out across the mountain. There is a worship hall at the base of the mountain just off the main road through town. The main hall is actually up the mountain a little ways. There is a path for people to hike if they are so inclined which begins at the hall mentioned above, but for those who would rather not hike, there is a ropeway only about 50 meters away that makes two stops. The first stop is about half way, and it’s from here that people can get off to go to the main hall of the temple, while the second stop is near the top of the mountain ridge where and outlook of the town is located. The main hall is where the Eleven-Headed Kannon is located, as well as the majority of items offered for the bathhouses.

The restaurant to the right of this stone sells hot spring eggs which are black in color because they’ve collected minerals from the spring water they’re steamed in. In addition, there is a natural fountain of many colors because of the minerals precipitating from the water.

The lower worship hall of Onsenji.

 

Nyoirinji

Hidden in the woods of Yoshino in southern Nara Prefecture is a quiet temple with a storied past. Originally founded in the 10th century, the temple gained siginificant notoriety in the 14th century when Emperor Go-Daigo moved his imperial court from the north (Heian-kyô/Kyoto) to the south in Yoshino. The emperor was recently ousted from the capital by the very warriors he had worked with to overthrow the warrior government of the time, the Kamakura bakufu. He and his allies formed a new court in Yoshino to combat the usurpers, but the emperor passed only two years later and his supporters were removed or eliminated soon after. Emperor Go-Daigo and his wife are buried within small earthen tombs on the slopes just above the temple grounds.

For the casual: 2. For the educated: 6.

To be honest, there isn’t much of a reason to visit this temple. There’s nothing particularly outstanding to see and it’s a long travel for those with no more than a vague interest. There are two scenarios where I believe someone could have more of a reason to visit: first as scholars or those interested in Japanese history, and second as a casual visitor in spring.

For a more educated visitor, the temple is of course home to an emperor’s tomb, and it’s the tomb of a particularly prominant emperor in a long long line of puppet emperors. This guy was actually able to take back his political power even if for only a few years. I mean, no one else was ever able to do that until Emperor Meiji in 1868. But more than that, the temple is home to a treasure hall with items of note belonging to the emperor and his loyal retainers. There are pieces from Kusunoki Masashige (See my post on Minatogawa Jinja), armor sets, paintings, and even the names of loyal retainers carved into the temple door.

Visitors to Japan in spring, particularly in late March-early April, are treated to the entire nation turning to pink with the annual wash of cherry blossoms. There are many brilliant places across the country to see these famous blossoms, but the slopes of Yoshino are literally COVERED in cherry trees. Every spring the entire mountainside turns pink, and the temple grounds are no exception. If you enjoy the annual blooms, then Nyoirinji is a pretty nice spot to pull over and enjoy the flutter of petals through the air.

Emperor Go-Daigo’s mausoleum.

 

Daisho-in

Daisho-in is the primary Buddhist temple on the island of Miyajima in Hiroshima and also serves as the starting point for the holy pilgrimage from the shores of the island to its mountainous summit. Though it doesn’t always feel like it, this temple has received imperial patronage over the years and was even said to have been founded by Kukai, the founder of Koya-san.  The temple is mainly located on the hillside looking down on the tidal flats, but there are several buildings in a variety of locations ranging from the Kannon-dô behind Itsukushima Jinja, to several halls along the climb to the mountain summit.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 7.

I think my only criticism is about something that it can’t really control: it’s just not as stunning as Itsukushima Jinja. It’s a crazy criticism I know, but after the jovial brightness of vermillian paint, the smell and sight of the crystal blue tidal flats, and the looming statement that is the water torii, going to this temple of dark browns and hints of gold, it just doesn’t have the same presence. In any other place, I think I would be ranking this temple higher, but again, the competition is just on another level all together. That being said, I think that Daisho-in is one of the nicer temples around. There are a series of halls and noted locations within the temple grounds wich bring their own unique taste to the complex. From sutra prayer wheels lining the main stairs to the complex to a cave of sandstone carvings and lanters. Each turn a visitor takes will change the style, the world, and the art available for viewing. The stream of water coming down from the mountain brings in that lovely sound of bubbling water while several waterfalls just upstream add that roaring rush of noise. All of this water and moisture nourishes the rich blanket of moss which covers most of the temple off the stone paths.

I think one of the best perks of this temple is the lack of large crowds. Sure there will be more than a few people visiting the temple and one time, and the narrow layout of the grounds will make even a small group of people feel like a crowd, it really isn’t all that crowded. After visiting Itsukushima Jinja, a place which will almost always have crowds, it’s a welcome escape from it all to make the quick walk through the small town to Daisho-in where you can get a really fantastic view of the sea.

As mentioned before, the climb to the top of the island starts on a gravel trail next to the temple entrance, but I would like to share a warning that the trail is steep and takes about an hour to climb. If that doesn’t sound like your cup of tea, feel free to follow the signs to the ropeway which will take visitors up to a secondary peak for a small price. From this secondary peak there is a trail which will join with the main trail from the temple to reach the summit.

 

Shôren-in

Shôren-in is a Tendai sect temple in the hills just north of the Gion District and Yasuka Jinja. Formerly as a branch temple of the famous Enryakuji on Mt. Hiei, Shôren-in is one of the five Monzeki temples in Kyoto. Temples that earn the title of Monzeki are known for their head priests being members of the Imperial Family. The first head priest was a monk by the name of Gyogen and was later succeeded by the seventh son of Emperor Toba, Prince Kakukaishin-no, who started the lineage of monks from the Imperial Family leading the temple. 

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 5. 

The connection between the Imperial Family and Shôren-in should be more than enough to indicate the level of care and beauty found within the temple. Most of the temple grounds are surrounded by gardens which can be accessed with a ticket from the front office. I apologize for not having any of my own photos of the temple so be sure look it up when you get the chance.