Kôsanji

Founded in 1936 on the island of Ikuchijima in Hiroshima Prefecture by Kôsan Wajo, a successful businessman in Osaka, Kôsanji was built over the course of 30 years in dedication to the passing of his mother. The temple is a collection of buildings based on noted originals all across Japan ranging in style from the Asuka Period in the 6th and 7th centuries, to the Edo Period in the 17th through 19th centuries. Nikkô Tôshôgû’s Yomeimon is the central gate, Byôdô-in’s Phoenix Hall is the central structure, and the pagodas are based on those of ancient Nara at Hôryûji and Yakushiji. Kôsanji is a temple known for its flashy colors and austentacious architecture.

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 4.

This is a temple for the casual visitor not only because of how outgowing the entire complex is, but also becauase it has so many famous building replicas in one place, you can kind of say that you’ve seen what needs to be seen. I mean, I still urge you the reader to see the original structures, but I can’t fault you for not wanted to travel great distances to see the same buildings. The temple is also home to a small collection of art collected by Wajo-san over his lifetime, many of the pieces being nihonga silk paintings.

Naturally the biggest draw to the temple are the buildings. Each one is a replica of some of the most beloved and outstanding pieces of architecture ranging across Japan’s history. To make it even more dramatic, each building is also painted in bright colors, certainly a throwback to the aesthetics established by the Edo period shoguns. Visitors are able to experience the change in structures as they climb up the different levels of the hillside this structure is founded upon. For added drama, there is also a tunnel graciously referred to as the “Hell Tunnel” because of the stone effigies and statues depicting the various Buddhist hells that await the non-devout. Due to the coronavirus, the tunnel was not available when I visited, so I have little more to say on the matter, but I’m also kind of glad because I think I would have had to crouch most of the journey through.

Behind the complex as a whole is a monument park carved out of Italian marble. The park is called Hope Hill and is supposed to portray not only a balance and harmony between humans and nature, while also emphasizing the importance of familial relationships. Personally I had a hard time enjoying this area. Part of it was because of how hot it was. The white marble reflects so much heat right back at you it can be a little overwhelming, but also I for one couldn’t see the desired tensions and harmonies implied by the artist. I’m sure that if it had been explained to me I would have had a greater enjoyment of it all, but for the most part it was lost on me. I will say that I enjoyed watching little kids playing around the stones, or listening to them cry about random things. Overall it’s a nice little area to walk around above the temple with a nice view of the town and sea, but ultimately the temple doesn’t need this attachment to the complex.

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Byôdô-in’s Phoenix Hall

Byôdô-in’s Phoenix Hall

Nikkô Tôshôgû’s Yomeimon.

Nikkô Tôshôgû’s Yomeimon.