Byakugô-ji

Byakugô-ji is a temple in northern Hyogo Prefecture in the town of Tamba. It was founded in the 8th century when a statue of Yakushi, the healing Buddha, was found emitting light from the urna (the third-eye) on its brow. In fact, the temple’s name is a reference to that exact story. Today, the temple is known for its grove of 藤の花, wisteria, which draws large crowds of visitors in April and May.

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 4.

In terms of greater backstory and historical import, this temple is pretty low, however its beauty is something for all to enjoy. I already mentioned the wisteria trees which grow thick with white and purple blossoms Which droop low from their steel frames. The wisteria for sure are a seasonal delight, but there’s even more to enjoy from peacocks and maple trees to koi fish and tall pine trees. Even if it’s not easy to get to, Byakugôji and Tamba are worth the journey.

 

Onsenji

Onsenji, literally meaning “hot spring temple,” is a temple to the healing powers of the hot spring waters that are used at the seven renowned bath houses in the coastal town of Kinosaki in Hyogo Prefecture. The temple was founded in 738 C.E. by imperial decree, establishing Onsenji as the first guardian deity of Kinosaki. The Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva is the primary guardian of the town and the waters are considered to have special healing powers.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

The story goes that visitors to the baths of Kinosaki were not allowed entry to the baths unless that had received a wooden ladle from the temple. The waters were considered holy, and there was a respect with which bathers needed to behave if they were to truly receive the healing powers of the water. This ladle would not only function to bathe in the “proper” way, but also as a ticket to enter the baths. Today, such strict guidelines are no longer followed, nor is the method of bathing traditionally required within the baths. However, all of this good luck and knowledge is available from the main temple hall halfway up the mountain slope. However, if any visitor would like to learn the traditional method of bathing in these waters, there are pamphlets, guides, and even little comics available for purchase, or even included with your purchases in the town. Ladles are also still available from the temple, though more than likely they will be obtained from the various gift shops and bathhouses, in town.

It’s important to note that there are several buildings that belong to Onsenji, but they are spread out across the mountain. There is a worship hall at the base of the mountain just off the main road through town. The main hall is actually up the mountain a little ways. There is a path for people to hike if they are so inclined which begins at the hall mentioned above, but for those who would rather not hike, there is a ropeway only about 50 meters away that makes two stops. The first stop is about half way, and it’s from here that people can get off to go to the main hall of the temple, while the second stop is near the top of the mountain ridge where and outlook of the town is located. The main hall is where the Eleven-Headed Kannon is located, as well as the majority of items offered for the bathhouses.

The restaurant to the right of this stone sells hot spring eggs which are black in color because they’ve collected minerals from the spring water they’re steamed in. In addition, there is a natural fountain of many colors because of the minerals precipitating from the water.

The lower worship hall of Onsenji.

 

Senkoji

Senkoji is a rather extraordinary temple on Awaji Island, a kind of temple I didn’t know about until later. For one, the temple sits at the summit of Senzan, one of the tallest mountains on Awaji and said to be the first mountain created by the gods in Japan’s origin myth. Because it’s so tall and rather solitary in its local, it’s sometimes referred to as “Awaji Fuji” by local residents. The temple is home to Senju Kannon, the thousand-armed Kannon Bodhisattva.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 6

I didn’t realize it until later, but I had never been to a temple sitting at the summit of a mountain before. I kind of thought that would be something I had done somewhere in my travels, but until I think of one, I haven’t. I’ve been to places with a temple near the summit, ususally just down the hill a ways, but never at the very summit.  You’d think that with how auspicious the summit of a mountain is that there would be more temples at the top, but apparently not. Shrines on the other hand are a bit different because although a mountain shrine will have the main facilities at the base or even near the top, the summit usually has at least a small altar or home for the god.

Anyways, I did enjoy my little excursion to the summit to visit Senkoji. It’s a lovely little temple with great views of the surrounding island (if maintenance has clipped a tree or two). Many stray cats were there lounging in the sun while a great flurry of bugs whistled by in the summer heat. There are several flights of stairs to the summit and each level has a building or two. I’m still not sure if a goshuin can be purchased at the temple, but a goshuincho is available.

The temple itself is quite lovely for its small size with a four story pagoda which is visible from the town below, a bronze bell, and a main hall flanked by two stone boars. Up here, there was a facinating swarm of dragonflies darting through the air. Walking around the summit, it became easy to understand why there is a shrine to Amaterasu-Omikami, the sun goddess.

Senkoji is certainly a difficult location to get to without a car, and the climb, although not particularly long, is steep. For those visiting from off the island, I would recommend a bus ride to Sumoto and then hiring a taxi to take you to the mountain top. Therefore I’m not positive I can convince most people to take the time to visit this remote location, but I enjoyed my time and for that I’m content.

 

Shôsha-zan (Engyôji)

A little north of Himeji-jô in the city of Himeji, atop a mountain looking over the plain, sits one of the more photogenic temples in the Kansai area, one which some may recognize it without realizing.  Engyôji, as it’s formally known, is a premier temple complex used in movies across Japanese cinema and even in American films like “The Last Samurai.” With open courtyards and buildings which conform to the mountainside, it’s easy to see why the temple is a popular location to visit.

Though the exact age of the temple is unknown, in 2018 Shôsha-zan celebrated 1,300 years since it was established by a traveling monk as the temple it is today, but buildings were on the grounds long before that.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 9.

Though I would say that this complex doesn’t have the je ne sais quoit things which would give it a 10 in my mind, I wholeheartedly believe that this is one of the best temples to visit in the Kansai area. I think the only thing that keeps the massive crowds at bay is its location outside of the major cities. Yes, Himeji is a major city, but it really isn’t when compared to the actual major cities nearby: Kobe, Osaka, and Kyoto. Especially because this temple is not in Kyoto I believe that the temple is largely left a secret from unknowing eyes. At least in my mind, people that come to Himeji are primarily interested in going to the castle and spending their time there, while time in and around temples is reserved for Kyoto and its massive collection of holy sites. As a result, I think that the majority of foreign visitors to the temple are either those living in Japan, or those planning on spending more than one day in Himeji and elect to do the castle one day and the temple the next. But this is all my opinion and I have no facts to support this idea.

Here’s the bottom line: this temple is beautiful and I think everyone should visit at least once. The ride up the mountain-side in the ropeway has some teaser views of the northern Himeji area, and the climb up to the temple itself has some lookouts where you can see even farther. Also, let me quickly clarify, I just said that there is a climb up to the temple, and while that is true, it’s nothing outside of the ordinary. It’s short but steep and lined with cool statues of Bodhisattvas, most of which are different incarnations of Kannon, and each one allows for a brief rest before climbing another 20 meters to the next one for a break. I believe I’ve mentioned in past posts that mountains in Japan are never gentle, but they are usually very short and don’t take too long to get to the top. This trail I would estimate takes about 10-15 min but may take longer depending on how many statues you want to look at.

Like most complexes in Japan, Engyôji has some buildings that are off limits to most visitors, and the first few buildings that you come across fall into that category. It isn’t until at least a while later that the temple opens up to one of the main halls standing tall above the pathways. This hall, the Maniden, is the central hall of the complex and is a great place for collecting goshuin, talismans, and other prayer tools for your home. I highly recommend taking a look at the wood carving ornamentation on the support beams inside and outside. Swirling imagry that has been darkened by hundreds of years of incense burning.

The key section to the complex is just up the hill from the Maniden and it’s a grouping of three buildings to form a courtyard. Together the three buildings are appropriately called the Mitsunodo (The Three Halls) and it consists of the Daikodo (the Main Hall), Jikido (the lodging hall which is now used as a museum for the temple’s treasures), and the Jyogyodo (the Gymnasium). This part of the temple was used in “The Last Samurai” and is one of the primary marketing pushes made by the temple to bring in more visitors. Across from the courtyard is a small enclosure of small buildings which designated the mausoleums of the Honda lords, the feudal family which controled Himeji Castle.

The group I was with wanted to leave so I didn’t get a chance to see some of the other groupings of smaller buildings around the complex, but there is a bell tower, a graveyard, and several meditation halls used by the staff. For casual viewers, the above-mentioned main halls are what you really want to see. Practically everything else I would recommend for people with a deeper background in Japanese history and art history. But hey, that doesn’t mean that everyone can find something interesting and new in any scenario. So please enjoy the temple, make a reservation for lunch at a small cafe by the Maniden, and enjoy the lush forests that surround you.