Gakuenji

In the mountains north of Izumo Taisha, overlooking the Sea of Japan, the small temple of Gakuenji has been standing since at least the 5th century C.E. There have been various mythologies regarding the founding of the temple, but it was built to pray for healing Empress Suiko who was suffering from an eye infection. The temple was founded and then it was expanded upon until the complex spread across the mountain ravine in which it was built. Over the years however, it has sadly fallen into disrepair so there are really only a few buildings. But, because of renewed interest from tourists, there are a variety of projects in the works to continue to preserve and repair the various buildings of the complex.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

The appeal of this temple is genuinly the forest it’s built in. In the summer the leaves are vibrant green and still moist with the humid air, in autumn the leaves turn bright red and orange, winter brings the occasional blanketing of snow, and spring is known for the explosion of flowers in bloom. Each of the buildings is also weathered, portraying the years that each wood pannel has seen. But overall I think my favorite part of the complex was the moss. There is moss covering everything, and it’s that beautiful rich green that also looks more like a fine carpet than a plant. It’s really and incredible sight to behold.

There is a building outside of the main complex up the road a few hundred meters which has a small building built into a cliffside behind a water fall. This building in particular is refereced in the various tourism advertisements for Shimane Prefecture and the Izumo area. I was unable to see this building for myself due to an encroaching thunderstorm, but I look forward to my chance to see it in person.

 

Kôsanji

Founded in 1936 on the island of Ikuchijima in Hiroshima Prefecture by Kôsan Wajo, a successful businessman in Osaka, Kôsanji was built over the course of 30 years in dedication to the passing of his mother. The temple is a collection of buildings based on noted originals all across Japan ranging in style from the Asuka Period in the 6th and 7th centuries, to the Edo Period in the 17th through 19th centuries. Nikkô Tôshôgû’s Yomeimon is the central gate, Byôdô-in’s Phoenix Hall is the central structure, and the pagodas are based on those of ancient Nara at Hôryûji and Yakushiji. Kôsanji is a temple known for its flashy colors and austentacious architecture.

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 4.

This is a temple for the casual visitor not only because of how outgowing the entire complex is, but also becauase it has so many famous building replicas in one place, you can kind of say that you’ve seen what needs to be seen. I mean, I still urge you the reader to see the original structures, but I can’t fault you for not wanted to travel great distances to see the same buildings. The temple is also home to a small collection of art collected by Wajo-san over his lifetime, many of the pieces being nihonga silk paintings.

Naturally the biggest draw to the temple are the buildings. Each one is a replica of some of the most beloved and outstanding pieces of architecture ranging across Japan’s history. To make it even more dramatic, each building is also painted in bright colors, certainly a throwback to the aesthetics established by the Edo period shoguns. Visitors are able to experience the change in structures as they climb up the different levels of the hillside this structure is founded upon. For added drama, there is also a tunnel graciously referred to as the “Hell Tunnel” because of the stone effigies and statues depicting the various Buddhist hells that await the non-devout. Due to the coronavirus, the tunnel was not available when I visited, so I have little more to say on the matter, but I’m also kind of glad because I think I would have had to crouch most of the journey through.

Behind the complex as a whole is a monument park carved out of Italian marble. The park is called Hope Hill and is supposed to portray not only a balance and harmony between humans and nature, while also emphasizing the importance of familial relationships. Personally I had a hard time enjoying this area. Part of it was because of how hot it was. The white marble reflects so much heat right back at you it can be a little overwhelming, but also I for one couldn’t see the desired tensions and harmonies implied by the artist. I’m sure that if it had been explained to me I would have had a greater enjoyment of it all, but for the most part it was lost on me. I will say that I enjoyed watching little kids playing around the stones, or listening to them cry about random things. Overall it’s a nice little area to walk around above the temple with a nice view of the town and sea, but ultimately the temple doesn’t need this attachment to the complex.

Byôdô-in’s Phoenix Hall

Nikkô Tôshôgû’s Yomeimon.

 

Senkoji

Senkoji is a rather extraordinary temple on Awaji Island, a kind of temple I didn’t know about until later. For one, the temple sits at the summit of Senzan, one of the tallest mountains on Awaji and said to be the first mountain created by the gods in Japan’s origin myth. Because it’s so tall and rather solitary in its local, it’s sometimes referred to as “Awaji Fuji” by local residents. The temple is home to Senju Kannon, the thousand-armed Kannon Bodhisattva.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 6

I didn’t realize it until later, but I had never been to a temple sitting at the summit of a mountain before. I kind of thought that would be something I had done somewhere in my travels, but until I think of one, I haven’t. I’ve been to places with a temple near the summit, ususally just down the hill a ways, but never at the very summit.  You’d think that with how auspicious the summit of a mountain is that there would be more temples at the top, but apparently not. Shrines on the other hand are a bit different because although a mountain shrine will have the main facilities at the base or even near the top, the summit usually has at least a small altar or home for the god.

Anyways, I did enjoy my little excursion to the summit to visit Senkoji. It’s a lovely little temple with great views of the surrounding island (if maintenance has clipped a tree or two). Many stray cats were there lounging in the sun while a great flurry of bugs whistled by in the summer heat. There are several flights of stairs to the summit and each level has a building or two. I’m still not sure if a goshuin can be purchased at the temple, but a goshuincho is available.

The temple itself is quite lovely for its small size with a four story pagoda which is visible from the town below, a bronze bell, and a main hall flanked by two stone boars. Up here, there was a facinating swarm of dragonflies darting through the air. Walking around the summit, it became easy to understand why there is a shrine to Amaterasu-Omikami, the sun goddess.

Senkoji is certainly a difficult location to get to without a car, and the climb, although not particularly long, is steep. For those visiting from off the island, I would recommend a bus ride to Sumoto and then hiring a taxi to take you to the mountain top. Therefore I’m not positive I can convince most people to take the time to visit this remote location, but I enjoyed my time and for that I’m content.

 

Kawasaki Daishi Heikenji

Kawasaki Dashi Heikenji, or more commonly as Kawasaki Daishi, is a temple with an origin story very similar to that of Sensôji. The story goes that a samurai by the name of Kanenori blundered and was sent into exile from his home in modern Aichi Prefecture to Kawasaki. He lived his new life as a fisherman and was deeply devoted to the teachings of Buddhism to find redemption for his mistakes. One night, he had a dream of Kobo Daishi, famed monk and founder of Koya-san. In the dream, Kobo Daishi instructed Kanenori to go fishing and his catch will bring him peace. The next day, Kanenori went fishing and found a spot that seemed brighter than normal. He cast his net and pulled up a wooden statue of the venerated Kobo Daishi. He brought the statue to his local priest, a man who had met Kobo Daishi, and together they began building the temple that would become Kawasaki Daishi.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

If you’re willing to make the little trip out to the temple, I definitely recommend it. The temple is on the larger side, but the layout feels very relaxed and open. I was particularly a fan of the main hall with its beautiful ornamentation and wonderful smell of incense. A small market lines the path to the temple so be sure to stop by for some snacks, some sweets, and wonderful conversation. In spring the temple is affected by the Kanayama Matsuri and becomes quite the popular location.