Byakugô-ji

Byakugô-ji is a temple in northern Hyogo Prefecture in the town of Tamba. It was founded in the 8th century when a statue of Yakushi, the healing Buddha, was found emitting light from the urna (the third-eye) on its brow. In fact, the temple’s name is a reference to that exact story. Today, the temple is known for its grove of 藤の花, wisteria, which draws large crowds of visitors in April and May.

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 4.

In terms of greater backstory and historical import, this temple is pretty low, however its beauty is something for all to enjoy. I already mentioned the wisteria trees which grow thick with white and purple blossoms Which droop low from their steel frames. The wisteria for sure are a seasonal delight, but there’s even more to enjoy from peacocks and maple trees to koi fish and tall pine trees. Even if it’s not easy to get to, Byakugôji and Tamba are worth the journey.

 

Kurama-dera

In the mountains north of Kyoto, Kurama-dera was founded atop the mountain with the same monacher in the late 8th century C.E. The temple was originally founded as a nature retreat, a spot to get away from the chaos and commotion of everyday life and enter a serene and secluded life in search of spiritual enlightenment. Now, that dream is slightly less viable with the massive city of Kyoto crammed up against the entrance of the mountain pass. The temple itself is known for a long and storied history, but it’s most known for a powerful supernatural connection between the samurai general Minamoto Yoshitsune, and the tengu of Kurama-san, Sôjôbô.

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

Kurama-dera, like any good mountain complex, is not simply confined to one location on the steep slopes. The temple has its main halls in one location, but there are a series of smaller halls, shrines, and locations of import all across the mountain. Most of these locations are reasonably accessable along a mountain trail which begins on the east side where the temple is, and ends on the west side.

The temple grounds have a great many important locations like an energy locus on the observation deck, rooms where sutra copies can be written, and homes for some of the temple’s important artifacts. A small museum is also open to the public for a small fee which contains temple artifacts, items relating to the tengu legends of the area, and also the wildlife found across the mountain.

There’s even a shrine to the king of demons (奥の院魔王殿) ! Now, I’m not sure if this is a shrine to a specific demon, monster, or just a darkness that seems to be present in the area; I mean, the landscape behind the building looks pretty hell-ish. I think what is more likely is that this shrine is dedicated to Sôjôbô, the tengu I mentioned earlier. He was said to be the king/god of all tengu in Japan and some myths state that he had the power of 1,000 tengu. When Minamoto no Yoshitsune (Ushiwakamaru) was staying at the temple, he trained under the famed tengu and learned martial arts, military strategy, and magic. While tengu are yokai of extraordinary power, they can be equal parts benevolent and malevolent. This small shrine may be to appease the evil side of the tengu that could bring destruction to the towns, and even the kidnapping of children. Of course, this is all conjecture since I couldn’t find any concrete information regarding the temple grounds.

 

Onsenji

Onsenji, literally meaning “hot spring temple,” is a temple to the healing powers of the hot spring waters that are used at the seven renowned bath houses in the coastal town of Kinosaki in Hyogo Prefecture. The temple was founded in 738 C.E. by imperial decree, establishing Onsenji as the first guardian deity of Kinosaki. The Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva is the primary guardian of the town and the waters are considered to have special healing powers.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

The story goes that visitors to the baths of Kinosaki were not allowed entry to the baths unless that had received a wooden ladle from the temple. The waters were considered holy, and there was a respect with which bathers needed to behave if they were to truly receive the healing powers of the water. This ladle would not only function to bathe in the “proper” way, but also as a ticket to enter the baths. Today, such strict guidelines are no longer followed, nor is the method of bathing traditionally required within the baths. However, all of this good luck and knowledge is available from the main temple hall halfway up the mountain slope. However, if any visitor would like to learn the traditional method of bathing in these waters, there are pamphlets, guides, and even little comics available for purchase, or even included with your purchases in the town. Ladles are also still available from the temple, though more than likely they will be obtained from the various gift shops and bathhouses, in town.

It’s important to note that there are several buildings that belong to Onsenji, but they are spread out across the mountain. There is a worship hall at the base of the mountain just off the main road through town. The main hall is actually up the mountain a little ways. There is a path for people to hike if they are so inclined which begins at the hall mentioned above, but for those who would rather not hike, there is a ropeway only about 50 meters away that makes two stops. The first stop is about half way, and it’s from here that people can get off to go to the main hall of the temple, while the second stop is near the top of the mountain ridge where and outlook of the town is located. The main hall is where the Eleven-Headed Kannon is located, as well as the majority of items offered for the bathhouses.

The restaurant to the right of this stone sells hot spring eggs which are black in color because they’ve collected minerals from the spring water they’re steamed in. In addition, there is a natural fountain of many colors because of the minerals precipitating from the water.

The lower worship hall of Onsenji.

 

Oka-dera (Ryûgaiji)

Oka-dera is a temple founded in the 7th century in the foothills of southern Nara. This temple is one of many temples originally founded in the Asuka Period, the first period in Japan where the government adopted Chinese philosophy, religion, and standards. The name “Ryûgai,” meaning “Dragon Lid” is from a story saying that the first head monk of the temple defeated a dragon terrorizing the temple and trapped it in a pond on the grounds. The monk used a large stone as a lid to keep the dragon trapped within. The dragon repented and agreed to protect the temple and grant good luck to its visitors. It’s said that the rock will begin to shake in anticipation of rainfall.

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 7.

Oka-dera is a really great temple in a very lovely section of southern Nara Prefecture. With ancient earthen tombs just around the corner, a variety of temples and shrines only a short walk away, and the city of Kashihara a brief drive down the road, Oka-dera is both easy to access but equally free of large crowds.

The temple has only a handfull of buildings in the complex: a main gate, a main hall for worship, and a pagoda on the hill above. Yet despite that, the colors of the wood, the smell of incense, the seasonal flowers and changing leaves create a beautiful tapestry to enjoy regardless of season. It’s not a flashy temple and it can’t hold a candle to the temples of northern Nara or Kyoto, but if you’re looking for a day of temple hopping in the first capital, then I can’t think of many other places to just walk (or bike) and enjoy everything there is to see.