Onsenji

Onsenji, literally meaning “hot spring temple,” is a temple to the healing powers of the hot spring waters that are used at the seven renowned bath houses in the coastal town of Kinosaki in Hyogo Prefecture. The temple was founded in 738 C.E. by imperial decree, establishing Onsenji as the first guardian deity of Kinosaki. The Eleven-Headed Kannon Bodhisattva is the primary guardian of the town and the waters are considered to have special healing powers.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 4.

The story goes that visitors to the baths of Kinosaki were not allowed entry to the baths unless that had received a wooden ladle from the temple. The waters were considered holy, and there was a respect with which bathers needed to behave if they were to truly receive the healing powers of the water. This ladle would not only function to bathe in the “proper” way, but also as a ticket to enter the baths. Today, such strict guidelines are no longer followed, nor is the method of bathing traditionally required within the baths. However, all of this good luck and knowledge is available from the main temple hall halfway up the mountain slope. However, if any visitor would like to learn the traditional method of bathing in these waters, there are pamphlets, guides, and even little comics available for purchase, or even included with your purchases in the town. Ladles are also still available from the temple, though more than likely they will be obtained from the various gift shops and bathhouses, in town.

It’s important to note that there are several buildings that belong to Onsenji, but they are spread out across the mountain. There is a worship hall at the base of the mountain just off the main road through town. The main hall is actually up the mountain a little ways. There is a path for people to hike if they are so inclined which begins at the hall mentioned above, but for those who would rather not hike, there is a ropeway only about 50 meters away that makes two stops. The first stop is about half way, and it’s from here that people can get off to go to the main hall of the temple, while the second stop is near the top of the mountain ridge where and outlook of the town is located. The main hall is where the Eleven-Headed Kannon is located, as well as the majority of items offered for the bathhouses.

The restaurant to the right of this stone sells hot spring eggs which are black in color because they’ve collected minerals from the spring water they’re steamed in. In addition, there is a natural fountain of many colors because of the minerals precipitating from the water.

The lower worship hall of Onsenji.

 

Oka-dera (Ryûgaiji)

Oka-dera is a temple founded in the 7th century in the foothills of southern Nara. This temple is one of many temples originally founded in the Asuka Period, the first period in Japan where the government adopted Chinese philosophy, religion, and standards. The name “Ryûgai,” meaning “Dragon Lid” is from a story saying that the first head monk of the temple defeated a dragon terrorizing the temple and trapped it in a pond on the grounds. The monk used a large stone as a lid to keep the dragon trapped within. The dragon repented and agreed to protect the temple and grant good luck to its visitors. It’s said that the rock will begin to shake in anticipation of rainfall.

For the casual: 7. For the educated: 7.

Oka-dera is a really great temple in a very lovely section of southern Nara Prefecture. With ancient earthen tombs just around the corner, a variety of temples and shrines only a short walk away, and the city of Kashihara a brief drive down the road, Oka-dera is both easy to access but equally free of large crowds.

The temple has only a handfull of buildings in the complex: a main gate, a main hall for worship, and a pagoda on the hill above. Yet despite that, the colors of the wood, the smell of incense, the seasonal flowers and changing leaves create a beautiful tapestry to enjoy regardless of season. It’s not a flashy temple and it can’t hold a candle to the temples of northern Nara or Kyoto, but if you’re looking for a day of temple hopping in the first capital, then I can’t think of many other places to just walk (or bike) and enjoy everything there is to see.

 

Nyoirinji

Hidden in the woods of Yoshino in southern Nara Prefecture is a quiet temple with a storied past. Originally founded in the 10th century, the temple gained siginificant notoriety in the 14th century when Emperor Go-Daigo moved his imperial court from the north (Heian-kyô/Kyoto) to the south in Yoshino. The emperor was recently ousted from the capital by the very warriors he had worked with to overthrow the warrior government of the time, the Kamakura bakufu. He and his allies formed a new court in Yoshino to combat the usurpers, but the emperor passed only two years later and his supporters were removed or eliminated soon after. Emperor Go-Daigo and his wife are buried within small earthen tombs on the slopes just above the temple grounds.

For the casual: 2. For the educated: 6.

To be honest, there isn’t much of a reason to visit this temple. There’s nothing particularly outstanding to see and it’s a long travel for those with no more than a vague interest. There are two scenarios where I believe someone could have more of a reason to visit: first as scholars or those interested in Japanese history, and second as a casual visitor in spring.

For a more educated visitor, the temple is of course home to an emperor’s tomb, and it’s the tomb of a particularly prominant emperor in a long long line of puppet emperors. This guy was actually able to take back his political power even if for only a few years. I mean, no one else was ever able to do that until Emperor Meiji in 1868. But more than that, the temple is home to a treasure hall with items of note belonging to the emperor and his loyal retainers. There are pieces from Kusunoki Masashige (See my post on Minatogawa Jinja), armor sets, paintings, and even the names of loyal retainers carved into the temple door.

Visitors to Japan in spring, particularly in late March-early April, are treated to the entire nation turning to pink with the annual wash of cherry blossoms. There are many brilliant places across the country to see these famous blossoms, but the slopes of Yoshino are literally COVERED in cherry trees. Every spring the entire mountainside turns pink, and the temple grounds are no exception. If you enjoy the annual blooms, then Nyoirinji is a pretty nice spot to pull over and enjoy the flutter of petals through the air.

Emperor Go-Daigo’s mausoleum.

 

Asuka-dera (Hôkôji)

Hidden in a cluster of buildings on the south side of Nara Prefecture is Asuka-dera, a temple founded in the late 7th century and named after both the community and the time period. The temple was built by the Soga clan, one of the most powerful of the time. In the Asuka Period, the temple was a massive complex with a pagoda, lecture halls to the east and west, and smaller halls within the walls for sutra study and copying, farming, and living quarters. Asuka-dera would remain a premier temple until the government moved north to modern Nara. From then on the temple grounds gradually shrank from fires and disrepair, but the main hall and the buddha inside have never changed locations.

For the casual: 4. For the educated: 6.

It’s not every day that you get to come across a location like Asuka-dera. Most of us would likely drive right by if we saw it, assuming that it’s just one of any number of local temples that proliferate every corner of Japanese society. There are no towers, grand halls, or sprawling parking lots. The only access road always has at least one car, not because it’s busy, but because it’s so narrow. To all the world, there is nothing of import here, save for those who know. The first hint is in the name: Asuka. Not only is this the name of the community, but also the time; about 1400 years ago or so. And after all that time, this one hall has not moved an inch. It has stood in one form or another in this singular location for all that time. When Charlemagnes ruled the Franks, this temple was already one hundred years old. Just think on that for a moment. But how do we know how old it is? Because the buddha inside is the oldest dated buddha in Japan with an inscription dating it to 609 C.E. It’s quite battered but standing at 3 meters tall, it is still a fairly imposing figure. The rigid seated posture and corkscrew hair indicates that the statue was cast in accordance with Chinese style and design; very understandable considering buddhism had just arrived from China.