Iwashimizu Hachimangû

Founded in the 9th century, Iwashimizu Hachimangû is one of the most important shrines in the Kyoto area. Enshrined is the god Hachiman, the God of War and Victory in competition, a popular god amungst the warrior class. Through numerous occasions in history, the Imperial court turned to Iwashimizu to pray for victory in various rebellions, revolts, and even during the Mongol invasions of the 13th century. The shrine has had multiple buildings added on over the years but the most notable additions come from Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi, two of the Three Great Unifiers of Japan. Later in the Edo period, the third shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu would add several more buildings to the complex to make it what it is today.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 9.

Iwashimizu Hachimangû is one of those places that is pretty amazing in so many ways. First off, it's a quick ride on the Keihan subway line which does not go to Kyoto station, but it does follow the Kamo River so there are plenty of places to catch it. Once you get to Yawatashi station, there are two options of how to get to the shrine: hike or cable car. My friend and I took the cable car up the mountain because we had a lot to do, but it was quick and easy and only ￥200 for a round trip. The hike as I understand it is a bit steep (a commonality that pretty much every trail in Japan) but is very beautiful. The path lined with lanters weaves up through the trees to the top where the main building is. The main shrine itself is quite the spectacle with classic vermillion paint, gold trimming, dark wood roofs, and on a clear day, crisp blue skies above. As such, the shrine is designated a National Treasure and is a highly popular destination for athletes, students, and anyone seeking good luck particular with competitions.

 

Ikuta Jinja

Situated in the center of the Sannomiya district of Kobe, Ikuta Jinja is one of the oldest recorded shrines in Japan. Acording to the Nihon Shoki, Ikuta Jinja was founded at the turn of the 3rd century by the Empress Jingu and was surrounded by forest until the 19th century when the already bustling port city boomed with modernization. Today, Ikuta Jinja continues to represent the heart of Kobe both in its function as the spiritual center, as well as the geographical center.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

Ikuta is a beautiful shrine smack dab in the center of Kobe. Around it are multitudes of restaurants that sell perfectly cooked portions of Kobe beef, one of the most expensive cuts of meat you can get in Japan. It is also only a few blocks from the major shopping centers in the area which helps visitors orient themselves within the city. When the shopping gets to be a bit much, the shrine is a welcome reprieve from the bustle of city life. If you're looking for something to photograph, Ikuta Jinja is definitely photogenic locality with vermillian tori, a massive gate, and views of the mountains only just overshadowing the complex. Though it seems small from the outside, Ikuta Jinja is a spaceous site once you get into the gates. The shrine also hosts various events throughout the year as it seeks to not only reinvigorate its position in the ever changing local climate, but also to bring in foreign tourists through its gates. I saw a gagaku performance (Imperial Court music) and had a wonderful time experiencing yet another classic Japanese art that continues to capture the imagination of those who watch and listen.

Also there’s a shrine to sake brewing. How wonderful is that?

 

Onokorojima Jinja (Awaji Island)

Nestled in the center of Minamiawaji city on Awaji Island, Onokorojima Jinja is a shrine dedicated to the first island created in the Japanese genesis story. Onokorojima was an island bade by the gods Izanagi and Izanami by using a spear to swirl the deformed mass of the mortal world until a piece of that mass dripped off the tip of the spear and became an island. This shrine is supported by the imperial family of Japan and is noted for the massive tori gate which stands in front.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 3.

Onokorojima Jinja is a cool shrine given its history and location. The shrine itself is a bit of a letdown, but that's only based on the standards instilled from going to shrines in the two biggest hubs of Japan and therefore are subject to serious funding and embellishment. If the Japanese were also as religious as those that follow some other major religions, Onokorojima Jinja would be a massive complex supported by whoever was in power dating back to when the shrine was first built. Sadly that's not how things are, but it is important to remember that the shrine is backed by the imperial family. Awaji Island is a hidden gem in the backyard of the Kansai area. It's an area that most foreigners never even imagine to visit, but please, if you have the chance to visit Awaji and the city of Minamiawaji, please come visit this shrine, because I guarantee that the people who work diligently there every day will be more than happy to give you tips on some special places in town to visit that only the locals know. Hot springs anyone?

 

Shimogamo Jinja

Shimogamo Jinja is a shrine along the banks of the Kamo river and just northeast of the Imperial Palace in Kyoto. This shrine is home to Kamotaketsunomi-no-mikoto, the guardian deity of the city of Kyoto, and also to his daughter Tamayorihime-no-mikoto, a goddess of strong and prosperous marriage. Said to take on the form of a three-legged raven, Kamotaketsunomi-no-mikoto is believed to have led the first emperor of Japan, Jimmu, to not only the site where the great capital of Kyoto would be established, but also to where his shrine would later be constructed. Though it is not known when the shrine was first constructed, artifacts have been found which date the shrine back as far as the Yayoi Period (c. 350 BCE-c. 250 CE). The forest which surrounds Shimogamo Jinja is an ancient forest designated as a National and World Heritage site in its own right as it is so old that its history is rather unknown. Shimogamo Jinja is also one of the shrines which participates in the Shikinen Sengu, a tradition of rebuilding shrines anew every 21 years for spiritual purity. The last rebuilding of Shimogamo Jinja was 2013.

For the educated: 9. For the casual: 9.

Shimogamo Jinja is a special place to be in the Kyoto area. Like many of the sites here, Shimogamo Jinja is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a National Heritage site. I also recommend going to the shrines and temples which house the guardian deities of the city, but this one was rather special in my opinion for a number of reasons.

For one, the shrine is buried in the Tadasu-no-mori, a forest so old they dont actually know what the name means although its been narrowed down to delta or justice. Take your pick. Anyways, a walk through this protected forest means that you can escape most of the busy city that you have clogged your pores with. Listen to the birds and the bees, or if youre visiting in summer, the cicadas. the white gravel pathways and green canopy complement each other until you reach the shrine itself. Vermillion gates stand in stark constrast, but do not seem to loose sight of the beauty it surrounds itself with.

For those who have an understanding of Japanese history, Shimogamo Jinja is a great and easy place to visit if you want to tap into the ancient lay lines of the Kyoto past. But its also important to take in the sensory brilliance of such a little haven. Enjoy the sights, sounds, and smells, and relax as you get transported from central Kyoto to a lush wonderland.

 

Yasukuni Jinja

Founded in 1869 originally has Shôkonsha, or the Shrine for the Invited Spirits, the shrine was renamed Yasukuni in 1879. As an imperial shrine dedicated to those who paid the ultimate sacrifice in war for Japan, the entire shrine complex is filled with statues and memorials commemorating various aspects of the war effort, but is also covered in the golden chrysanthemum motif which is the seal of the imperial family. In 1932 there was a collective enshrinement for all those who died in the service of Japan resulting in almost 2.5 million spirits enshrined in one place. 

Controversy around the shrine comes from incidents starting in 1970 and 1978, which continue to this day. In 1970 and 1978, there were additional enshrinement of Class A, B, and C War Criminals from the second World War. Things get even more complicated when considering that many times since, the acting Prime Minister of Japan has visited the shrine to pay respects while in the capacity of office, an act which is viewed by some to honor those convicted of war crimes. Things don't get much easier when visiting the war museum at Yasukuni and the clear nationalism of an era, which to some had been stopped too soon. 

For the casual and the educated: each experience is different.

I don't know what to tell you readers. Yasukuni Jinja is a difficult place to explain and experience for all the reasons that I mentioned above. Some people go and have a great time, others have come back humbled, while others have left enraged. The shrine is in essence a war memorial to commemorate the lives lost in the name of Japan. In this regard, going to Yasukuni should be no different than going to war memorials in D.C. or anywhere else in the world except that for Japan, so many lives were lost in the monumental defeat which took Japan from the most powerful nation in East Asia to a slum state for the next 20 years. As a Westerner walking around, it felt rather weird walking through a memorial to people whom my grandparents fought. It was fine for me until a group of elderly people came to visit the shrine and they started giving my friend and I glaring looks almost to say, "What the hell are you doing here?" My friend and I from then on spoke in tongues to try and disassociate ourselves from any Allied nation. I encourage caution if you want to visit the museum next door because it is all about the glory of the Japanese Empire and what not. Sure there are some real planes and tanks, but the entire museum store is about remembering what it was like to stand up against the Americans and to control a major part of the world. And yet for all the nationalism, it is critical to remember that though there are some bad eggs enshrined and their contribution to the war is controversial, there are still over 2.5 million people there who are no different from our war veterans. These people fought for what they believed was right and they died doing so, and to that extent they deserve similar respect to our honored dead. 

That being said, Yasukuni is gorgeous beyond all belief. Clean wood, gold, copper, and lacquer decorate the shrine. An outdoor area for sumo and one of the most acclaimed gardens in Japan. Again, visiting Yasukuni Jinja is really up to the viewer because it has such a dark background shrouded in amazing art. A walk down the main drag reminds visitors that this shrine really is devoted to people who lost their lives doing what they felt was right; people hoping that their actions were going to save lives back home. 

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This is a memorial to soldiers who wanted two things when they died; clean water and their mothers. This is an abstract monument of a mother bending over to give clean water.

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So the person standing at the base on the right is me and I'm 6' 3".

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This is the main hall where visitors can pay respects with the main shrine behind it.

 

Ana-Hachimangû

Ana-Hachimangû started as a training ground for mounted samurai before it was a shrine. Founded as a training ground by Minamoto no Yoshiie, he turned the site into a shrine to the god Hachiman by enshrining his helmet and swords in 1062 following his victory in the 9 Year War of Tohoku. Later, a monk looking to establish a monastery found a cave near the shrine where a copper statue of Amida Buddha was unearthed. Since Amida Buddha was the Buddhist incarnation of Hachiman, the statue of Amida was also enshrined giving the shrine its current name of Ana-Hachimangû. In the Edo period, Ana-Hachimangû was made the prayer offering shrine for the Tokugawa families. 

For the casual: 6. For the educated: 7.

Ana-Hachimangû is not exactly a major shrine, though its history suggests otherwise. What really makes it stand out is the location and how the shrine is organized. Across the street is Waseda University, considered one of the top universities in Japan and often called the Stanford of Japan (though I disapprove of this comment because Stanfurd). Here, students come to pray for good luck in all sorts of endeavors from studies to sports. The shrine itself is up a small hill which allows the landscaping to create pleasant terraces with various trees, flowering plants, grass lawns, and ponds. Tori gates of bright orange contrast the black and gold of the main hall.

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