Iwashimizu Hachimangû

January 30, 2018 by Brennan Duff in Shrine

Founded in the 9th century, Iwashimizu Hachimangû is one of the most important shrines in the Kyoto area. Enshrined is the god Hachiman, the God of War and Victory in competition, a popular god amungst the warrior class. Through numerous occasions in history, the Imperial court turned to Iwashimizu to pray for victory in various rebellions, revolts, and even during the Mongol invasions of the 13th century. The shrine has had multiple buildings added on over the years but the most notable additions come from Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi, two of the Three Great Unifiers of Japan. Later in the Edo period, the third shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu would add several more buildings to the complex to make it what it is today.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 9.

Iwashimizu Hachimangû is one of those places that is pretty amazing in so many ways. First off, it's a quick ride on the Keihan subway line which does not go to Kyoto station, but it does follow the Kamo River so there are plenty of places to catch it. Once you get to Yawatashi station, there are two options of how to get to the shrine: hike or cable car. My friend and I took the cable car up the mountain because we had a lot to do, but it was quick and easy and only ￥200 for a round trip. The hike as I understand it is a bit steep (a commonality that pretty much every trail in Japan) but is very beautiful. The path lined with lanters weaves up through the trees to the top where the main building is. The main shrine itself is quite the spectacle with classic vermillion paint, gold trimming, dark wood roofs, and on a clear day, crisp blue skies above. As such, the shrine is designated a National Treasure and is a highly popular destination for athletes, students, and anyone seeking good luck particular with competitions.

Ikuta Jinja

December 19, 2017 by Brennan Duff in Shrine

Situated in the center of the Sannomiya district of Kobe, Ikuta Jinja is one of the oldest recorded shrines in Japan. Acording to the Nihon Shoki, Ikuta Jinja was founded at the turn of the 3rd century by the Empress Jingu and was surrounded by forest until the 19th century when the already bustling port city boomed with modernization. Today, Ikuta Jinja continues to represent the heart of Kobe both in its function as the spiritual center, as well as the geographical center.

For the casual: 8. For the educated: 8.

Ikuta is a beautiful shrine smack dab in the center of Kobe. Around it are multitudes of restaurants that sell perfectly cooked portions of Kobe beef, one of the most expensive cuts of meat you can get in Japan. It is also only a few blocks from the major shopping centers in the area which helps visitors orient themselves within the city. When the shopping gets to be a bit much, the shrine is a welcome reprieve from the bustle of city life. If you're looking for something to photograph, Ikuta Jinja is definitely photogenic locality with vermillian tori, a massive gate, and views of the mountains only just overshadowing the complex. Though it seems small from the outside, Ikuta Jinja is a spaceous site once you get into the gates. The shrine also hosts various events throughout the year as it seeks to not only reinvigorate its position in the ever changing local climate, but also to bring in foreign tourists through its gates. I saw a gagaku performance (Imperial Court music) and had a wonderful time experiencing yet another classic Japanese art that continues to capture the imagination of those who watch and listen.

Also there’s a shrine to sake brewing. How wonderful is that?

Onokorojima Jinja (Awaji Island)

December 19, 2017 by Brennan Duff in Shrine

Nestled in the center of Minamiawaji city on Awaji Island, Onokorojima Jinja is a shrine dedicated to the first island created in the Japanese genesis story. Onokorojima was an island bade by the gods Izanagi and Izanami by using a spear to swirl the deformed mass of the mortal world until a piece of that mass dripped off the tip of the spear and became an island. This shrine is supported by the imperial family of Japan and is noted for the massive tori gate which stands in front.

For the casual: 3. For the educated: 3.

Onokorojima Jinja is a cool shrine given its history and location. The shrine itself is a bit of a letdown, but that's only based on the standards instilled from going to shrines in the two biggest hubs of Japan and therefore are subject to serious funding and embellishment. If the Japanese were also as religious as those that follow some other major religions, Onokorojima Jinja would be a massive complex supported by whoever was in power dating back to when the shrine was first built. Sadly that's not how things are, but it is important to remember that the shrine is backed by the imperial family. Awaji Island is a hidden gem in the backyard of the Kansai area. It's an area that most foreigners never even imagine to visit, but please, if you have the chance to visit Awaji and the city of Minamiawaji, please come visit this shrine, because I guarantee that the people who work diligently there every day will be more than happy to give you tips on some special places in town to visit that only the locals know. Hot springs anyone?

Kasuga Taisha

September 15, 2016 by Brennan Duff in Shrine

Kasuga Taisha is one of the premier ancient shrines built during the Nara period when the capital was at Heijô-kyô. The shrine is home to several key gods brought in from other shrines in the area, but its main deity is Takemikazuchi-no-Mikoto, the guardian deity of Nara. It is said that Takemikazuchi-no-Mikoto came to Kasuga Taisha on the back of a white deer, a detail which makes all deer sacred animals by imperial decree. Today, the deer in Nara mostly lounge around Nara Park and sometimes in the middle of roads. Again, these animals are deemed sacred and cannot be harmed in any way, so good luck getting through town if they're blocking the roads. Kasuga Taisha was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998.

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 9.

Kasuga Taisha is one of the coolest shrines that I visited simply because of the environment. Visiting this shrine is like a great hike. Most of the time visiting the shrine is walking up the path to get to the buildings. The pathway is lined by over 3,000 stone lanterns donated by patrons of the shrine and there are so many in fact that it has more stone lanterns in one location than anywhere else in Japan. Above the walkway are beautiful healthy cypress trees which give you a great reprieve from the summer sun. Once you arrive at the shrine itself, the color palate changes from the greens, browns, and grays of the pathway to the vibrant whites and oranges of the buildings. Visiting the shrine for the most part is free, but the buildings themselves require a ticket. If you were wondering, and I'm sure at least a few of you were, the lanters are lit only twice per year, in August and on the 3rd of February to celebrate the end of winter.

Fushimi Inari Taisha

September 15, 2016 by Brennan Duff in Shrine

Predating the capital of Heian-kyô in the 8th century, Fushimi Inari Taisha is one if not the most iconic shrine known to foreigners around the world. Home of Ukanomitama-no-Mikoto, the goddess of agriculture, the shrine is dedicated to the well being of crops. The shrine has had many famous donors over the years, including famed warrior Toyotomi Hideyoshi who donated the front gate of the shrine. Unlike most other shrines, Fushimi Inari ranges all over a single mountain from the main shrine at the bottom to the "center" of the shrine at the top where a flame is lit.

For the casual: 10. For the educated: 10

The shrine's inconicity is derived from two key features: it's tori gates and its fox statues. Foxes are the messengers of the goddess and are known for hunting many of the pests that would harm agricultural fields. Now if you've read my Intro to Shrines page, which I highly encourage you do if you haven't yet, you'll know that all shrines will have a tori gate. This gate signifies the boundary between the worlds of mortals and immortals, the sacred and impious. Fushimi Inari on the other hand doesn't have one, two, or ten, it has thousands upon thousands of tori gates which align the twisting pathways that lead from the base of the mountain, to smaller shrines across the mountain, and finally to the "center" of the main shrine at the summit of the mountain. These tori gates are all donations from various individuals and companies over the years and by stacking them closely together, the viewer gets the illusion of walking through vermilion hallways. In fact, at the entrance to the main shrine, there are even notices letting visitors know how much one tori will cost ranging from small tori only about a food tall, to one of the many thousands of large tori which mark the main pathways up the mountain.

Because Fushimi Inari Taisha is a celebrety amongst shrines across Japan, be prepared to face large crowds if visiting on a weekend or on a holiday. An easy way to avoid most crowds on any day is to visit around noon (all the tours arrive in the morning) or on a weekday. If you're not interested in climbing the mountain, that's totally fine, but the majority of visitors will be staying close to the base of the shrine and some of the first few hallways of vermillian tori before leaving for the next major tourist attraction. All the same, I don't believe that a visit to Kyoto is complete without visiting Fushimi Inari Taisha.

Yasaka Jinja

September 15, 2016 by Brennan Duff in Shrine

Yasaka Jinja is one of the most well known shrines in the Kyoto area standing at the east end of Shijo Street in the Gion District. Shrine legend states that the shrine was founded some 150 years prior to the founding of the Imperial Capital of Heian-kyô. Famously known as the site of the Gion Matsuri (Gion Festival) which occurs throughout the month of July, it pays tribute to the many gods enshrined at Yasaka, both greater and lesser. Some of the most noted gods enshrined are Susano'o-no-mikoto (God of Storms and Seas), Kushi’inadahime-no-mikoto (Susano’o’s wife, a Goddess of Rice, she was a princess he saved from Orochi, the eight-headed snake), and Yahashira-no-mikogami (the honorable eight god children of Susano’o and Kushi’inadahime).

For the casual: 9. For the educated: 9.

Yasaka Jinja is a sight all should go see. Unfortunately that does mean that you should expect lots and lots of tourists. Gion is already a very famous area of Kyoto because it is the geisha district, and by far the most famous geisha district in Japan. For those who do not know, geisha, meaning "art person," are female performers who specialize in party entertainment of varying sizes while also performing grand theater pieces. Most of Gion has changed into a modern city, but some of the streets are still traditional city houses, some of which are the okiya or homes of geisha. Because of their strong international appeal, many people flock to Gion in hopes of catching a glimpse of a geisha on their way to a party. As a result, it's almost impossible to imagine Gion when it isn't bustling full of people. The draw also means that tourists can rent kimono or yukata for a day of photos around Kyoto, and with Yasaka Jinja near by, the shrine is a very popular location for visitors. It is because of these crowds that I'm hesitant to mark this shrine as a 10, but I recognize that the shrine is beautiful even compared to other shrines, and the masses of people does make a visit enjoyable if people watching is your kind of thing.